|
Tramping New Zealand |
ABOUT THE HIKES
Does New Zealand actually offer the best hiking in the world?
Based upon my definition of "hiking", the answer is, "No". On a
one-day basis, I have personally logged many hikes that rival or
better anything that I saw here in New Zealand.
Such a comparison is basically invalid, however, for
evaluation of a Great Walk must logically be based upon the
total package. Because the best scenery on those tracks
cannot be enjoyed except on multi-day excursions,
usage of the huts and all that that entails must be factored
into the equation.
A big plus is the organization. Buses will pick you
up at your hostel or wherever and whisk you to and from a
trailhead. Also, luggage can easily be stored or
transported to another location. In general, hikers are
treated as first-class citizens.
The logistics of a tramp are more suitable to some folks than to others. Interaction with other hikers is a key ingredient, and the camaraderie that one can develop over three or four days can be compelling. (One of my own most prized friendships began with a chance encounter on a mountain trail.) On the other hand, such things as upper bunk beds, management of clothing and equipment in virtual darkness, remote toilets, and snoring roommates certainly would not appeal to everyone, including me.
Of course, backpackers without the benefit of huts face many of the same drawbacks; and they must carry their own stoves, sleeping mats, and shelters as well.
Another issue is the layout of a track itself. Because
the route and duration are pre-planned, much of the later
walking consists of little more than long slogs through some
deep forests. Days #3-4 on the Kepler Track and
Day #4 on the Milford Track are good examples of relatively
unexciting lengths of trail on which the objective is little more
than just, "Let's get to the next hut in time to get a lower bunk",
or "Let's try to get out of here in time to catch an early boat".
Weather is an important factor as well. Had it been raining on Dave and me during the climactic days of any of our three tramps, our enjoyment would have been seriously curtailed, and we would have been left with far fewer photographic memories. The standard argument of, "That's the risk one takes on a Great Walk" doesn't get it with me; for had the weather not cooperated, I might now have been wondering whether the trip had been worth taking.
Finally, the issue of sand flies cannot be ignored.
They are ever-present in New Zealand, at least outside of
heavily populated areas, and their itchy bites linger for days
or even weeks. Proponents of hiking in this country
humorously downplay these nuisances as part of God's grand plan,
yet to me they are much more of a factor than that.
Stops for snacks, resting or taking pictures are important
aspects of any hike. Back home, judicious choices of times
and places can avoid problems with mosquitoes, leaving walkers
to rest, eat, swim, nap, or make love in peace and serenity.
Readers familiar with my journals know that I automatically downgrade
any outing on which bugs were a significant factor. For that
reason alone, Day #3 on the Milford Track is the only one
of our 18 New Zealand walks for which I am willing to assign a
top rating. Sorry, Kiwis, but I am spoiled.
All that having been said, should you go on a Great Walk?
Absolutely. There is nothing like it, and no
world-hiker's repertoire would be complete without a
visit to Fiordland. Also, an affinity for rainforests would
be a big plus. Just be aware of the pros and cons.
If you go in a drier season as Dave and I did, the weather can be
better; but the trek is not as spectacular. If you tramp
earlier in the season, there will be waterfalls galore; but you
might have to negotiate knee-deep or even waist-deep
water on a frequent basis. And either way, consider yourself
lucky if you get to spend much time standing still.
Now, let's review the original question. Are the Great
Walks the best-organized treks in the world?
Probably. Do they offer the best hut-hiking in the
world? Possibly. Speaking purely in terms of scenery
and overall enjoyment, however, I would be willing to wager that
most of those who have hiked both some Great Walks as well as
significant portions of the John Muir Trail would vote for the
JMT without reservation.
IN CONCLUSION
Travel hassles aside, I am so pleased to have made this trip; for otherwise I never would have visited the unique and refreshing place that is New Zealand. Thank you, Dave, for the opportunity.
THE GOOD:
THE BAD:
THE UGLY:
