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Tramping New Zealand |
DAY 21 - Milford Track 3/4
Dave and I are concerned about the weather today, because the forecast is for the "odd shower" which, according to the ranger means one, three, or five of them. If Dave's phenomenal luck as a traveler holds, however, there will be no problem.
In any case, this rates to be our most challenging
day thus far — a 1700-foot climb
followed by a 3600-foot steep descent over a
total of 13 miles. I cannot recall having done
anything this comprehensive previously.
So far, so good
The ubiquitous swinging bridge
The sun is just rising in the valley
Presently we encounter what Ranger Laura says are "swiiitch-baaacks, as the Americans call them".
It's up, up, and more up
That's where we were
Sometimes the trail is not so friendly
Nearing the summit?
Aha! There's something
Everyone seems to be stopping at this memorial
Beautiful
The guy with the turquoise hair graciously takes our photo:
Not beautiful, but it's what we were dealt
The clouds swirl in, then back out
Top of the world
Terrific tarns
We haven't yet actually reached McKinnon Pass. Dave estimates another 30 meters of climbing, so I mentally double that number as we head out.
The pass is up there somewhere
Above the memorial
This is why I go hiking
McKinnon Pass is the high point of the Milford Track.
It appears that we have indeed avoided
any chance of rain for this afternoon
Other signs spell it "Mackinnon". You choose.
This shelter has had quite a history, having been destroyed by weather and rebuilt several times.
⇔
This one even has a stove
Cloudy again
There also is a big water tank on the porch, supplied by nothing more than runoff from the roof of the building. It is perfectly drinkable anyway.
Starting the big plunge downhill
An unusual greenish fungus
Those are leaves, not flowers
A rare guard rail
We're going all the way to the bottom
What amazing colors!
That's McKinnon Pass up there
What follows here is the most jaw-dropping
climb 'down' a cascade that I have seen:
Moraine Creek Falls are incredible
Close-up
The next series
Down to the next overlook
Wow! That was so beautiful that's I am finding it difficult to put feelings into words.
We were up there a while ago
Lindsey Falls
The standard tour for a hut ranger is eight days on
duty, then six days off. That sounds better than it
actually is, because it takes the ranger at least a
day of tramping in each direction just to get off the
track and out to — wherever rangers go.
The Routeburn Flats Ranger is heading out
this way during one of her days "off"
The Quintin Hut is the most extensive facility I have seen on any tramp.
This one is for guided hikers only
A small hut is provided for the convenience of us independent walkers:
The idea is to leave your backpack here for the
next detour
We do that. Dave and I cannot pass up a trip over to the area's premier attraction, even though it will add three miles to our trek.
That's 1904 feet to Americans
The DOC brochure correctly lists the waterfall's height at 580 meters, but also shows it as just 904 feet. They really ought to correct that typo before the next printing.
First look at the falls
Several women pass me on the trail, heading back. One of them says, "Take a bath while you're up there!"
Finally, there is an unobstructed view. Oh, my!
This is why I came to New Zealand
Even though the rangers, signposts, and the park brochures
still tout this one as the country's tallest, Browne Falls
cascades 862 feet farther down a slope in Doubtful Sound.
Of course, waterfall-ranking being such a subjective
issue, Browne Falls is rated as #10 in the world on some
listings while not even being mentioned on others.
As another comparison, our own Yosemite Falls is 2,425
feet. Once thought to be the second-highest falls
in the world, it now is rated as just the fourth-highest
in the United States alone. The usage of modern laser
technology has greatly improved surveyors' accuracy of such
measurements.
A most spectacular bathtub
Everything I said about Moraine Creek goes double here
It would have been downright criminal not to have made this side trip, for this could well be the nicest spot on our entire journey.
Last look up at McKinnon Pass
Sutherland Falls from the main trail
This boardwalk cost $180,000 to build
Dumpling Hut
As Dave and I enter the hut, many eyes naturally turn toward us. I quip, "The oldest guy comes in last; what a surprise!" Someone else remarks, "It's not a race".
That of course is true — almost. Being the last to finish does mean that there will be no choice of beds at this last stop on our grand tour. The only remaining berths are upper bunks. It also is late enough in the day that there will be no opportunity to dry out soaked clothing in the sun.
Make the tower of Jenda blocks as high as you can
Tonight's packaged dinner is Murgh Makhani, or Butter Chicken. It's okay, but not one of the best choices. Having found an unused package of lamb and vegetables back at the Quintin Hut shelter, Dave gives it to the Seattle couple because they are planning to do another of the Great Walks shortly. Bob will have to deal with a nasty blister that he has developed, though.
That guy even brought a cheese grater
The two rum-drinking card players have managed to procure their own pencil for tonight from a box of "emergency supplies" back at Mintaro Hut. Because we are among the last to eat, Dave busies himself cleaning all six of the gas stoves afterwards. It's everyone's job, of course; but you know how that can go. Many are called, but few are chosen.
Hut Ranger Ian has two favorite stories for us. One
is about when he had explained to his wards about how to handle
a fire alarm; then, as was previously arranged, it went
off — and nobody moved. His other tallish
tale was about a man preparing dinner who had placed the package
of freeze-dried stuff between his legs on a bench and was
preparing to pour boiling water down there before Ian stopped him
just in time. Ian then comments that, "In retrospect, I
should have let him continue; for it might have improved the gene pool".
Finally, Dave confirms that his gloves are indeed missing;
so chalk those up in the growing lost-and-not-found column.
This was as grand a day of hiking as one could possibly want. It's going to be a tough act to follow.
