Kepler Track Fiordland National Park

March 18, 2017 — Day 1

The skies are predicted to clear

I have been rather apprehensive of this day since before this trip began.  Dave is even more anxious when, after boarding the bus, he realizes that his walking sticks are missing.  Our driver, however, graciously detours back to the hostel, where Dave runs in and finds his poles sitting in the communal kitchen.  The two women riding with us find this to be great fun as well.

Are we ready for this?

In deference to the potential rigors of what lies ahead, I have cut down on equipment weight: no spare pants, no extra knife, no GPS unit, etc.  I draw the line at forgoing my spare camera though, because a photographic record of the trek is far more important than any weight considerations.

Good.  I don't like meeting dogs on the trail

The climbing won't start for several miles

A lot of color in the Swordfern
Still cloudy

A campground facility is a sand fly haven

Our 2,900-foot climb begins here.  Although I am no stranger to elevation gains such as that, I never have tackled such an ascent with a pack on my back.

The cliff-side section is fun

The trail proves unexpectedly friendly, being easy on the feet and sporting a modest gradient.  By simply taking it slow and easy, and pausing whenever it feels right, we manage much more easily than had been anticipated.  The first check of my camera's altimeter shows that we already have ascended 2,200 feet, which is good news indeed.

A rainbow in the leaves and petals

The stairsteps seem limited to the side of this cliff, which is good

Finally, some views

Overlooking Te Anau

The hard part is done

But where is the hut?

Nice tarns
Nice colors

Ah, there it is — the Mt. Luxmore Hut

Unlike the facilities on the Routeburn Track, hikers are admonished to leave their boots and any wet stuff outside the hut here.

View to the north

The Takitimu Mountains

Dave and I stroll over to Luxmore Cave, which is quite dark inside

There are some typical cave formations inside; but without adequate lighting, further exploration would be indiscreet at best.

Ah, here comes the sunset — always a welcome phenomenon.

Nice

Nicer

Oh, my!  Look underneath the clouds down there.  I never have seen anything like that.

This is why I go hiking

Here's a somewhat expanded view:

At dinnertime, I borrow a water bottle that has been sitting on a window sill since before we arrived.  Its volume markings help us to properly measure the boiling water needed for our various gourmet dishes.  Tonight's fare consists of a Beef Bourguignon, which is so-so, followed by Apricot Crumble, which is quite tasty.

Afterwards, while I am busy ogling the landscape, Dave goes on a ranger-guided walk and learns more about plants than he previously had known.

Ranger-Biologist Peter Jackson updates the weather report

After ranger Peter's requisite messages about fire safety, cleanup, and snoring, he tells us a bit about the birds.  It seems that only an estimated 1,000 to 5,000 kea remain, because some 60% of their nests are attacked by the ferret-like stoats.  Those non-native vermin not only can climb trees, but have been known to destroy a nest and any eggs just for the fun of it, then later kill a rat for dinner.

The national symbol, the kiwi, is similarly threatened.  In the absence of predator control, only about 5% of the young survive as long as four years.  Every effort is being made to limit the population of stoats, which were imported in the 1880s at the behest of farmers to limit the rabbit population.

Tomorrow's outing features a big uphill followed by a huge downhill, with possible gale-force winds in the middle.  That should make for an interesting and strenuous day.