|
Rifugio Fonda Savio |
September 7, 2014
Our hostel in Dobbiaco is in what remains of the former Grand Hotel.
Also in this complex are the local National Park Headquarters and the Gustav
Mahler Concert Hall. Mahler spent some of his later life composing near
here. Yesterday, we had to stand in the bus all the way to the trailhead;
today, we will walk an extra half-mile to the primary bus stop so as to
be assured of seats.
Yesterday's walk at Tre Cime Lavaredo, just north of here, will
be a tough act to follow. From the bus stop at Lago Antorno, it is a short
half-mile walk south to the Fonda Savio trailhead.
The Dolomites have been categorized into named groups. Today's series of valleys and spires is the Cadini di Misurina, and the area's highest peak rises just above 9,300 feet.
That guy tolerates people, but not dogs
Spectacular views in several directions
The trail is relentlessly steep
We reach a saddle and stop for a well-earned breather, along with quite a few
other hikers. Despite the lateness of the season, there are enough flowers
around to help make this a good-feeling place.
It's a garden up here in Pian dei Spiriti
Autum Hawkbit -aka- Fall Dandelion
Looking back
The rifugio appears, perched upon a big rock
Getting up there is a challenge
One would think that if they wanted our business, they would improve the access; but that's not how it works around these parts. We have to earn the right to spend our money.
Heidi is serving; so Dave cannot resist ordering his favorite foreign dish — tripe!
I have little stomach for it myself.
Been there, done that
In back of the rifugio is a steep dropoff; apparently, that is where we are scheduled to go next.
We need to get down there somehow. See the two hikers below?
So long
The next section of trail is cable-assisted, meaning that if you don't hold on, something very bad could happen. I wouldn't care to attempt it if it were raining. The going will be challenging enough as it is with a triply fractured right wrist that has had but four months to recover.
We always could return by the same route; but that is not why we traveled 8,000 miles, and I'm supposed to like this sort of thing. In any event, Dave already has started down the cliff.
Taking the big plunge
Difficulty-wise, Angels Landing and Half Dome are nothing compared to this:
The roughest section of trail I ever saw
Actually, there isn't much exposure here; but a fall would be nasty.
The real problem is not the dizzifying angle; it's the rock itself.
When a boot is placed down on Sierra granite, it tends to stay there.
This dolomite rock, though, is relatively slippery, especially when wet;
and I am finding a reliance upon friction to be a tough habit to break.
The only recourse is always to select something flat as a foothold, and even
then it is best to hold onto something at all times as well.
That is where my weak-wrist condition makes itself known.
More obstacles ahead
The only hikers we would see for the remainder of the walk
Diligence and care prevail, and within fifteen minutes we are off the cliff.
I'm glad that's done, but it actually was a lot of fun ⇔
Now I can pause, relax a bit, and enjoy some world-class views.
I miss out on a great video-op here as Dave takes a flyer, being reminded that standard boot soles don't work well on snow.
It's back to snowdrift-management school
Iceland Poppy
The next grouping of poppies is so strikingly colored that I can only stare in amazement for a time before grabbing a few photographs:
This is why I go hiking...
...and this
Looking back
We don't get to go over there
Alpenrose
Moss Campion
It should be all downhill from here at Forcella Rinbianco
'Downhill' doesn't necessarily translate to 'easy'
Finally, we reach the meadow. Our work is all but finished.
Hmm... Which way?
This track leads to the highway just south of the toll booth where exorbitant
fees are being levied upon visitors to Tre Cime Lavaredo. After attempting
unsuccessfully to flag down a bus driver, we find a trail that parallels the
pavement for the next half-mile.
Lago d'Antorno reappears
Back at the bus stop in front of Rifugio d'Antorno
Our loop took us all the way around the peak on the left
Sleeping beside the lake
It's raining up there now, so we were lucky
§: This exhilarating outing was, in retrospect, Dave's favorite
hike of our entire trip.
| Scenery |  |
| Difficulty |  |
| Personality | |
| Solitude |  |
