The Narrows Zion National Park, Utah |
October 11, 2014
Today's hike is the reason that I wanted to come to Zion in October.
The weather is good, and the Virgin River flow should be low enough to enable
easy walking up the middle of it. The poster at the Visitor Center shows
the stream flow to be about 39 cubic feet per second, which is quite low;
and the ranger said to expect only knee-deep water during our trek.
Just in case, Gary has thought to provide several waterproof bags for our
precious camera equipment.
Some time ago I purchased a pair of neoprene socks for this occasion; I even
have brought along my Grand Tetons wooden walking stick. Companions Gary
and David are ready with water-tolerant boots. After due deliberation,
I have decided simply to wear my regular shoes, which can absorb a dunking without
complaint. Another issue is which pack to wear. Conditions being
friendly, it should be all right for me to use my standard lumbar pack.
The start of the Riverside Walk
We start the day with a mini-exploration of the eastern side of the park, awaiting a warmer time of day to enter the river. By the time we get around to that, all the parking lots are full; so we drive back to the motel and catch the free bus which comes almost right to our door.
On the shuttle, a leather-faced hiker with a pair of huge walking
sticks proclaims that we won't get very far in shallow water. Doubtless
he knows what he's talking about, so we will go only as far as seems prudent.
My guys are eating already, and we have barely gotten started
Getting to the Narrows entrance includes a mile on the paved Riverside Walk. Gary has discovered that he must have left his walking stick at the bus stop, but David offers to lend one of his own. At the end of the paved walk I don my fancy neoprene socks, and we are ready to go.
The wading starts here, and plenty of people are doing it
I find this rather exciting, having no knowledge of what actually to expect regarding water temperature or difficulty; but if everyone is doing it, how bad can it be?
So far, it's a walk in the park
The going is much easier than expected, and making my way up the channel actually is a lot of fun. The water flow is easily accommodated, the smooth river rocks don't seem at all slippery, and rest stops are available on conveniently located sandbars.
The water has not been more than knee-deep
The landscape is beautiful, as expected. Getting decent photographs is a bit difficult because of the crowd, but occasionally a reasonable opportunity arises.
I must admit to being singularly put off by the fact that I am trekking up the river beside people of all shapes and sizes who mostly have no decent shoes, no walking sticks, no nothing. They might as well be on an ocean beach. I am feeling rather silly for having been concerned about preparation and equipment. I guess it was pretty naive of me to expect this walk to be the domain of hardier and more adventurous souls. My research was inadequate.
David and Gary pause in the shade
Testing the water with my hand, I find it cold enough that I definitely would not want to go swimming; but it isn't bothering my feet or legs at all. In fact, sloshing through the creek is most enjoyable.
One can see that the water lever gets pretty high in here at times
At a pretty little waterfall, we must wait our turns; but eventually, everyone gets his portrait taken.
The route becomes more interesting
This swimming hole has just been vacated
Up ahead, the canyon walls are higher and the channel appears pretty dark. Judging future good photographic opportunities to be unlikely, my companions elect to stop here. I am somewhat disappointed, because as always my primary focus is on exploration, not pictures. On top of that, it looks as if most other walkers also stop here; so continuing would serve to weed out the tourists and less dedicated folk.
Ordinarily, I would continue regardless. On tomorrow's docket, however, is one of the most difficult hikes in my experience; so I acquiesce and start back with the others. We must save our strength, I suppose.
Our forward progress ends here
As always, once we turn around the scenery changes, and for the better in this case.
Back near the little cascade, some fall color has emerged into the sunlight:
All three of us are huge fans of autumn color
§: This novel opportunity was a lot of fun despite the crowds,
and my rating reflects that fact; it just was not quite what I had
anticipated. In all respects, the return half of the walk was more
pleasant. The lighting was better, and we had more or less mastered
the mechanics of river walking. As far as we went, at least, I could
have done just fine without the aid of a balancing stick. I would not
have wanted to be without one, however, while toting a camera that has a
singular dislike for water; for an actual fall could have been disastrous.
Should ever I repeat this walk, I will start in mid-morning so as to catch
as much sunlight as possible, use a regular shoulder pack, and plan to negotiate
deeper water if necessary. Hikers are allowed to travel up to two miles
upstream without a permit; today we did but one-fourth of that.
Scenery | |
Difficulty | |
Personality | |
Solitude |