Ted's Hiking World Angels Landing  &  Emerald Pools
Zion National Park, Utah

October 10, 2014

I have embarked upon a ten-day trip to red-rock land with my photographer friend Gary and his photographer friend David.  I am not expecting to see a lot of new territory on this trip, but sharing some of the most special places I know will be reward enough.

The drive from Bishop, California to Springdale, Utah, takes about eight hours; but the time passes quickly.  Gary and David share the driving chores, while I sit in the back seat and play on my laptop computer.  What a deal.

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Sunrise in Zion Canyon from the motel room window

After negotiating the park entrance station, we miss the immediate turnoff to the Visitor Center and the shuttle stop.  I know of another spot where we can park, however; so we go there and await the obligatory shuttle ride up the canyon to our trailhead.

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The moon always is worthy of a photograph

David has not visited Zion in about fifty years, and Gary was last here several decades ago as well.  Neither one has walked any of the trails I have in mind, so I am serving as a tour guide.

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Lighting is good at The Grotto *
Gary shoots the Virgin River at the trailhead

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Angels Landing (aka Temple of Aeolus) awaits us — way up there

Almost immediately, we are treated to an unusual sighting of an area resident:

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This tarantula measures about ten inches with its legs spread,

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There actually is a trail on that wall *
Entering Refrigerator Canyon

At the end of the canyon is the one-of-a-kind, world-famous series of twenty-one paved switchbacks up the rock wall, constructed 88 years ago by Walter Ruesch, the park's first custodian.

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Walter's Wiggles

Atop the Wiggles is Scout Lookout, a staging area for the final ascent.  This is where one gets to decide whether to continue to the summit.  Many do not, especially after reading this sign that has been updated since my last visit:

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Previously, this signpost showed only a drawing of a hiker falling off the cliff    ⇔

David, an overly eager sort, has not been seen since before I started up the Wiggles.  When I pause to adjust my boots, Gary passes by below me.  Being too dumb to call out, I let him forge ahead onto the cable route.  Now I must try to catch up, because Gary thinks that I am ahead of him; also, David's whereabouts are unknown.  This is not a desirable scenario.

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Getting started

Based upon advance descriptions of this hike, Gary, who doesn't care much for heights or exposure, has had some reservations from the start.  I had hoped to see his reaction to what I call Scary Step, my favorite segment of any hiking trail; but he is nowhere in sight.

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It's 800 feet down on the right, and 1,200 feet down on the left.  What fun!

A few minutes later I look back, and both of my guys are approaching from behind.  Apparently, Gary had detoured for a photograph, and David has magically reappeared.

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Here they come.  A semblance of order has been restored

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Today's tour is the most crowded of any of my four trips here

Crowds are inevitable, I suppose, when the weather is so good.

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Big Bend is directly below    ⇔

While attempting to take a picture of the backlit bush on the mountain summit, a nifty unplanned effect occurs that I would not realize until much later:

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Can you find both Gary and David in the picture?    ⇔

So far, my convalescent right arm and hand are managing the challenge okay; but my still-healing wrist is getting a bit sore from all the requisite pulling and grabbing.  In contrast, the others seem to be handling the rigors of the route just fine; for it is all I can do to keep up with them and pause for photos as well.

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There are nearly 40 hikers at the summit

At the top, it is time to take many photographs.  I am anxious to see what David and Gary come up with here, because they have better cameras than I — or at least, bigger ones.

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Zion Canyon to the south

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Looking north into The Narrows *
The canyon's east side

Atop the far cliff is a zigzag pattern worthy of a closer look:

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A portion of the Observation Point Trail.  I have yet to do that one

Both David and Gary are religious about their mid-day meals, so it is time to eat.  I munch my usual handful or gorp; then we are ready to leave.  It really isn't all that much fun up here with so many people around.

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Gary hams it up at the true summit *
David starts down

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The chain helps to prevent us from visiting Big Bend ahead of schedule.

I am finding it difficult to capture the true steepness of the trail with a still shot, but this one comes close:

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David inches his way downward

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Gary awaits us in the distance

Presently, I catch up with a woman issuing non-stop instructions to her daughter.  Eventually the poor girl, who doubtless is far better fit than her mother, retaliates with a cry of exasperation.

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Admittedly, it is a long way down

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Safely back at Scout Lookout

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Some flowers still are hanging out on Walter's Wiggles

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Nice textures    ⇔

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Gary adjusts David's camera settings

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Upper Refrigerator Canyon

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David basks in his accomplishment

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Ted is just being silly

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The sandstone archlets are fascinating

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The trail below is pretty interesting as well

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There is no lack of greenery in the canyon

Back at the Virgin River footbridge are some women who are considering tackling Angels Landing today.  Believing that heading up there in the hot afternoon sun would be madness, Gary admonishes them to go tomorrow in the cool of the morning instead.  I believe that they do heed his advice.

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Back at The Grotto

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It's time for more food

Bladders are emptied here and water bottles are filled (from a different source), in preparation for Part-2 of today's scheduled outing.

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A convenient spur route that I have not previously walked heads from The Grotto over to Emerald Pools, so off we go.

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Overlooking the Virgin River

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A most unusual overhang

The trail leads almost directly to the second level of the pools area.  There is almost no running water today, which is disappointing but not surprising.  One of the Middle Pools has dried up completely.

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Middle Emerald Pool

It is a relatively hot climb of 250 feet to the upper pool.  Gary is tired, and I believe that David is a bit weary as well.  Perhaps I shouldn't have been so hard on them on our first outing!

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Upper Emerald Pool

This amphitheater of high red cliffs on three sides is a stunningly beautiful and good-feeling place, especially when the high waterfall is active, which it is not on this occasion.  Too bad.  My other photos here don't look so hot, either; so I won't bother to post them.

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At the upper pool

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Starting down

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There is just one little waterfall issuing from Middle Pool, but the real attraction is the rock walls.  This is a really colorful place:

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This is why I go hiking

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A fun section of trail traverses the base of the cliff beside the Lower Pool

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Behind the falls

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Seeping through a crack in the rock

Lower Pool also is not much to look at today.  From here the route is paved all the way back to the Zion Park Lodge, where Clint Eastwood hung out in The Eiger Sanction  and where we will catch the shuttle bus.

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The Great White Throne


§: Today I gave my friends a taste of some of the best that Zion has to offer.  Everyone was up to the challenge, and nobody fell off a cliff.  My guys are happy, so I am happy.

I will say, however, that although Angels Landing always will remain on my hiking top-ten list, this fourth effort might have been my last trek up there.  Other Zion trails are as yet unexplored, and I would like to give them a try before I get old.  I definitely will revisit Emerald Pools, though, when more water is present.

Scenery *
Difficulty *
Personality *
Solitude *

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