Ted's Hiking World Monarch Lakes, Mineral King
Sequoia National Park
“Water and air, the two essential fluids on which all life depends,
have become global garbage cans.”   — Jacques-Yves Cousteau

September 10, 2013

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There are several options here    ⇔

For my first-ever visit to Mineral King, I opt to head for the Monarch Lakes.  Most of the climbing is done at the start.

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Those guys are using the trail also

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Other trailheads in Mineral King Valley
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Heading up the canyon

There isn't much water in the creek.  In fact, I can see no evidence of residual snow anywhere in the mountains above me.

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A spring feeds Monarch Creek

Three years ago I scaled the unique and special Moro Rock just to the north (Hike #90), only to find all the views obliterated by smog from the San Joaquin Valley.  I expect no better today, but there might be something worth seeing up close.

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The air quality is so poor

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The gradient is relentless, but not too steep.  The many switchbacks serve to make the going easier.

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After a 2,200-foot climb, a trail junction offers the option to head over to the Chihuahua Mine and Crystal Lakes.  Sticking with the original plan, only now do some interesting views present themselves.

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I am looking forward to this lengthy but scenic traverse

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Halfway there

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Crossing some scree
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Sawtooth Peak, 12343'

Around the far corner is the first lake; its stunning setting takes me somewhat by surprise, for I had seen nothing particularly noteworthy up to now.

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Lower Monarch Lake

The meeting of the red rocks with the granite wall has a profound visual effect.  This place is exquisite!

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This is why I go hiking

A couple of other hikers have arrived.  I backtrack a bit so as to try to engage them in conversation.  Hailing from Austin, Texas, the pair is seriously contemplating a permanent move to California.  Their original thought was to relocate to the southern state, but that plan is no longer in favor.  One look at the sky tells why.

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James and Kristin

Unbeknownst to the others, another lake lies just above us just behind this one.  We set off together up the use trail, but the younger folks' lungs soon leave me behind.

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Upper Monarch Lake and Mineral Peak, 11615'

Upon arrival, I see that Kristin and James already are hanging out on the beach.  I join them and treat my feet to a dunk in the water as Kristin treats me to a homemade cookie.

On the far cliff is a well-defined 'chute,' which can be utilized to cross-country over to the Crystal Lakes for a nice semi-loop.  I had considered that option; but the prospect of an extra 600 feet of climbing and 2+ miles of walking are putting me off.  Today's trek will be enough work as it is.

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This lake is four times the size of the other one, but is not as pretty

There is but one flower variety in evidence up here — a hardy succulent.

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Butterballs (Cushion Buckwheat)

I start back down, fully expecting the others to catch up and pass me later on.

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Lower Monarch Lake is 250 feet below

As I stop for photographs, two oriental gentlemen are scrambling their way up.  That fact is interesting in itself, because I simply don't see many far-easterners on Sierra Trails.  Even more noteworthy is the second guy's headgear, which conceals his entire face.  I don't know how he can see a thing.

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No bugs will bite him in the nose

At the far end of the lower lake, an adult foursome has arrived.  One of them is carrying a little baby, and I can hear it chattering.  By the time I get over there, though, the group already has packed up and departed.

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Now I see them...
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...now I don't

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A storm is brewing above Crystal Lake

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Farewell to one of the nicest places I ever have visited

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Monarch Creek is virtually dry

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Rougher going
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Easier going

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Empire Mountain, 11550'

Presently I overtake the young couple that I had spotted at lakeside.  On the promise that I will make their infant son Carter world-famous by publishing his photo on the Internet, we get him to pose nicely.

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Carter is having a good time

Carter's grandparents also make their appearance, and James and Kristin show up shortly afterwards.  Soon the two oriental dudes come by as well.  The one without the headdress volunteers that his companion is the "old man of the trail" at age 70; but I must correct him, because I am a year older.  I am thoroughly enjoying this informal party among four groups of total strangers.

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The end is in sight
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The mountains are barely in sight

The trailhead still is a thousand feet below, and the sky is threatening.  Stopping just long enough for a photo of the local wildlife, I make it back to the car just as the raindrops begin to fall.

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Hello


§: Today I had some great interaction with other hikers, and the Monarch Lakes were quite beautiful.  I have awarded this walk the highest rating possible under the circumstances.

No hike of mine, however, can be that highly regarded when the air quality is compromised.  The San Joaquin Valley might well feature the greatest per-acre agricultural production in the world; but the environment is truly disgusting, and all the pollution blows eastward into the park.  Good hikes can be had here at Mineral King; but if your goal is to visit a pristine environment, you'll not find one in Sequoia — at least, not on this side of the mountains.  Those days are gone, never to return until long after World War III.

Scenery *
Difficulty *
Personality *
Solitude *

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