Desolation Wilderness
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Enchanted Pools Desolation Wilderness |
August 1, 2011
My first trip into Desolation this year is coming at a very late date, for the road to this trailhead has been open for only a week or so. My principal destination is Island Lake. I presume from prior experience, however, that the essential water crossing at the Twin Lakes Dam will be unpassable due to the unusually high stream flow; so I will try to find another way.
The kayak set is out early
At the trailhead kiosk
The adventure starts by detouring from the Twin Lakes trail early and taking the use trail over toward a feature that is unnamed on maps, but is known by locals as Enchanted Pools. It is less than a mile to the Lower Pool, including a crossing of the Grouse Lake drainage that can be easy or difficult depending upon the water level.
South Silver Creek
I call this South Silver, although the creek by that name probably begins officially back at Wrights Lake.
Lower Enchanted Pool
Patterns ⇔
Following the creek upstream is a joy. There is so much water this year that in spots the stream flow is spread out all over the granite slabs. My photographic efforts cannot do justice to this wonderful place.
The water takes an unusual right-angle turn
I look for a way to cross the stream, but to no avail. As I reach the area of the upper pool, it is necessary to scramble down a cliff and deal with some manzanita in order to access the shoreline.
Upper Enchanted Pool
I never have seen this cascade looking so good.
South Silver again
I find myself in an unusual situation. Although the other main attractions are around the corner to the left, I cannot get over there to see them; yet there is a plan.
A bit of hands-on scrambling gets me past the boulders and up to an
easy-walking section. While traversing the slabs beside
the rushing cascade, my heart sings; for cross-county travel
doesn't get any better than this.
This is why I go hiking
At the wilderness boundary
Normally I could have crossed here at a relatively skinny section of creek, but not today.
White Mountain Heather
Finally, I find a place where the stream has broken into five or six smaller sections. By hunting for opportunities, I am able to surmount all the water obstacles without getting wet. Hooray! Now I don't have to worry about the crossing at the Twin Lakes dam.
Water is flowing all over the place
Near a small feature that I previously named Square Falls for its appearance, a little furry critter entertains me for a time.
Caterpillar
Square Falls
One-seeded Pussy Paws
Five minutes more walking begets the Twin Lakes and their scenic setting.
Twin Lakes and the Crystal Range
On a real trail again, I continue eastward. Presently a group including several boisterous young males overtakes me. The adult member of the party apologizes for interrupting my reverie, but the raucous behavior continues unabated.
The gang at Boomerang Lake
Jewel Flower
Sierra Stonecrop
Another half-mile of walking, partly across a big snowdrift, gets me to
Island Lake and its Garden-of-Eden setting.
It has been three years, and that's too long ⇔
My original idea had been to continue to the end of the lake, then loop
across some uncharted territory over to Silver Dagger Lake above the big
cascade. I inexplicably have felt more tired than usual since the outset
of this hike, however, and all the cross-country efforts have taken
their toll. Even though my favorite place in the Northern Sierra is
just above that slanted snowdrift beyond, I am weary enough to decide to turn
around here. Besides, there is a lot more off-trail work to do.
The garden
At the big snowdrift, the guys have caught up with me.
The Boomerang Gang tries unsuccessfully to slide down the snow bank
Interesting geology
Icebergs in Boomerang Lake
A camp at Twin Lakes
Telephoto view of the falls
l check out the dam, such as it is. Crossing it necessitates a balancing act in the best of conditions, but as I suspected, it would be impossible not to get wet today. Most of the hikers reaching this point surely have turned back, as I was compelled to do last year.
Twin Lakes Dam
Heading cross-country back down the north side of Silver Creek, I find new avenues to follow. Because I am not looking for a stream crossing now, I am free to take whatever seems like the most direct route down the hill.
Back at Square Falls
Natural passage
The mosquitoes are abundant here
Getting through here necessitates some talus-hopping
Umpa Lake drainage
Staying low avoids most of that high manzanita
I hear the noises of falling water ahead. With little additional effort,
I am back at Upper Enchanted Pool — this time, on the other side of
the creek. Mission accomplished!
Later afternoon is a good time for photographs here
A great swimming hole
It being about 4 p.m., the other visitors have departed. Perfect. I take a short break to marvel at the scene and contemplate my existence. Now the entire hike comes into better perspective, because I can see the slabs above the falls where I was walking just a few hours ago — so near, yet so far.
The big picture
After conducting another fruitless search for a way to cross the creek safely, I consider the options. Paralleling the north side of the stream from here looks like a difficult proposition; so I take the path of least resistance in a northwesterly direction, knowing that the Tyler Lake Trail is around here somewhere.
Surely enough, within a quarter-mile or so I spot the Tyler-Rockbound
Trail signpost. From here it is two miles back to the car. The
first part of the trail is horribly rough, but the rest is a delightful stroll
beside the meadow. This forced detour is costing me an extra mile of
walking; at least there is an established pathway.
Nearing the end of the trail
§: Had I known that I would not be exploring the Island Lake
area after all, I would have cut the walk short and headed over to Umpa
Lake instead; but then I would have missed some interesting photos.
In any case, I did arrange to visit all of the attractions at Enchanted
Pools today, at an especially good time.
Cross-country adventures in this basin can be delightful. Very little bushwhacking tends to be necessary, and becoming truly lost would be quite difficult.
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| Solitude | |
