Yosemite National Park
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Lembert Dome Yosemite National Park |
June 22, 2011
Having been inexplicably overcome by an urge to experience Tioga
Pass shortly after its seasonal opening, I find myself about to make
the ascent after a five-hour drive including construction delays.
A favorite road beckons
These falls on Lee Vining Creek have never looked so
good ⇔
Once out of the canyon, reality sets in, because winter conditions remain in force up here. That hasn't deterred other travelers, however; for it takes nearly an hour to get through the park entrance station at the far end of Tioga Lake.
Tioga Lake, 9,638'
In light of the fact that this road opened for the season just four days ago, I had expected the snow levels to be higher. All facilities in the area remain closed, however.
As I enter Tuolumne Meadows, Lembert Dome appears on the right. After all these years, I still have not climbed up there; so that seems like a worthwhile objective for today. Having not originally planned to hike here, however, I have no map or GPS coordinates to guide me; but how bad can it be?
Lembert Dome, 9450'
Deer at the trailhead
Immediately upon setting out, I encounter a snowdrift. I hope there aren't too many of them.
Getting started
Cathedral Peak, 10912'
More obstacles on the trail
Mule's Ears are trying to sprout
The trail progresses relentlessly upward beside a noisy rushing creek, which remains more or less out of sight. Suddenly the path disappears at water's edge. A group of seven hikers is confused as to how to continue. One of their party has forged ahead to see what he can find.
The Dog Lake drainage
Where will we go now?
The scout returns, claiming that he could not locate the trail. I respond that I don't care about the trail itself, but only how difficult the going might be. I know from prior study of a map that the standard access to the dome is from the northeast corner, which cannot be far away. The man wishes me luck as I plunge into the deep snowdrifts.
The trail is obscured; but does it really matter?
It is warm enough today that I didn't even pack a second shirt; so no matter what I am doing, it is fun. This is a new type of adventure for me. If it works out, I will be so pleased.
Nice textures
Unnamed pond
For a while, there is no respite from the hills of snow; then a flat area appears with about two inches of water running through it. I happily slog through the bog, because the going is so much easier this way. Waterproof boots are wonderful!
Presently I encounter a stream running down what clearly is the trail. Beyond this point the snow thins out, making the going easier.
This is the easiest route
Those logs were cut for human passage
After just half an hour of winter wilderness pioneering, a granite slab appears on my right. This must be my big chance!
I am grateful to be on solid rock for a change. There seems to be nothing for it but to scramble straight uphill and see what develops.
The route suddenly becomes a bit more challenging. It appears
that I must scale another snowdrift beside a cliff, such as what is seen
so frequently on those mountain-climbing documentaries.
Oops. What looked like the summit is not. Veering left, I head toward the higher point.
The top is way over there
Something here is very interesting! Although there are footprints in the snow, none of them were placed recently. Is it actually possible that I am the only person to conquer this mountain today? That would be an unexpected turn of events.
This is exciting ⇔
Some significant crawling and scrambling gets me to the top of Lembert Dome. As anticipated, there are outstanding views in every direction. I must admit that being up here alone feels somewhat weird. Maybe everyone is over at Half Dome, where the hikers' cables are scheduled to go up today.
Looking west over flooded Tuolumne Meadows ⇔
Northward view toward Mount Conness
Mount Dana in the east
I had expected to see the trailhead parking lot from this lofty position. The southernmost edge of the dome, however, is some distance away. It seems that this high point is not what is viewed from below.
Mountain Pride — the only flowers on today's hike
Looking back toward the summit of the dome
It so happens that the difficult scramble was unnecessary, because I am able to amble down the other side of the summit block. Although the easiest continuation from here would be to retrace my general upward path, the gradient isn't too steep to the southeast toward the highway, which is where I want to go. Gingerly inching my way down the granite slope in that direction, solid ground is accessed with little difficulty.
Water drains a spring through the crevice
This looked like a good shortcut at the time
A usage trail leads southward, but shortly it seems to end at the edge of another cliff. I am compelled to detour northward, being stymied at several turns while trying to get down into the forest.
Finally, out of frustration, I choose to go straight down the remaining
thirty feet of slab. Negotiating the last six feet or so entails a
slide down the rock slope. My special quick-dry hiking pants
must be quite slippery, because my descent is so rapid that I
instinctively throw out my arms, scraping a forearm against the boulder
in the process. A single band-aid is sufficient to contain
the damage, however.
From here, the nearby pack trail leads directly to the highway.
It is just under a mile down the road to the trailhead, where the air
temperature is up to 70 degrees.
Lembert Dome's true summit is barely visible behind the high
trees ⇔
During the drive home through the park, I make the obligatory stops
for photos of Tenaya Lake. My round-trip excursion covers 460
miles in 14 hours.
I have not seen that cascade previously
Tenaya Lake from the Tioga Road
§: This was a grand adventure. Despite a minor injury,
I completed the mission without the assistance of a human, map, or electronic
gadget. The knowledge that very few others, if any, ascended the popular
Lembert Dome on this day adds to my feeling of accomplishment.
I am mildly disappointed at not having seen Dog Lake. Although known to be nearby, it never was in view from up on the dome.
| Scenery |  |
| Difficulty |  |
| Personality | |
| Solitude | |
