Fiery Furnace Arches National Park |
April 19, 2011
Two months ago I signed up online for today's ranger-guided hike.
Because the tours accommodate only 50 people daily, an advance reservation
is advisable, and it was necessary for today.
The group awaits some chronologically challenged stragglers
After a check to make sure that everyone is properly equipped with water
and decent footwear, off we go. Within just a couple of minutes, however,
Ranger Karen stops for one of several mini-lectures. She displays
a chart of rock strata and relates it to the dinosaur era, then points to some
dark-colored matter beside the trail and asks whether anyone knows what is
is. After giving the others time to respond, I identify it as cryptobiotic
soil (cryptobiotic crust would have been more accurate).
Karen stresses that this stuff not only is alive, but is the basic building material for all plant life in the desert. One errant foot can destroy decades of growth. After an entreaty that we respect the soil by walking only on the wash bottom or else solid rock, we move on.
Jurassic rocks
The first instruction interval
Soon we actually enter the Fiery Furnace. Within a short distance is the first special attraction.
I have volunteered to play "group caboose" for an important reason. Not wanting humans to clutter every photograph, being last in line provides some flexibility. Now I can shoot the cute little natural bridge au naturel.
Walk Through Bridge from the other side ⇔
Ranger Karen explains the difference between an arch and a natural bridge. If she named the little round arch directly above us, I did not hear her.
Another arch of sorts is close at hand; several of the group humor themselves by worming their way through the opening.
Crawl Through Arch
Awaiting the would-be spelunkers
After retracing our steps into this little canyon, the route becomes somewhat more challenging, with places for climbing and places for squeezing.
Along the way, we bypass numerous side canyons. Some are dead ends; others are not. A newcomer could become hopelessly confused in this labyrinth. In fact, a special permit is required for entering the Fiery Furnace without the company of a ranger. Hikers have become lost in here, and it is easy to see why.
GPS units tend to be all but useless in these deep canyons, and in my opinion it would be foolhardy to attempt a navigation here without at least some prior experience in the area. Even if one could avoid losing his way, special features surely would be missed. Pay the five dollars, take the tour, and learn something in the process.
Suddenly an amazing structure looms above. Albeit not its original designation, the formation's nickname has stuck:
In the shadow of the scary formation, Karen discusses some of the
micro-organisms that are able to maintain an existence in
potholes. Being impervious to radiation, intense cold, and
dehydration, they can hang out here indefinitely, even after the
pothole dries up. The microbes are not immune, however, to
compression by a hiker's boot.
Moving on, the trail has its skinny places and tricky spots.
Ranger Karen overdoes it at the next obstacle, literally specifying which foot to place where. Most folk manage to figure it out for themselves.
A seat-of-the-pants slide is advised
The next challenge, however, is genuinely tricky. About the only way to get through this one is to inch along a rock while leaning over and balancing with hands on the other side of a thin chasm. What fun! Getting the group past this obstacle takes quite a while, leaving plenty of time to take pictures as I await my turn.
Interesting formations abound, but we cannot visit them all
Never a dull moment
Just as I am about to photograph an amazing horizontal tree,
Karen gathers eveyone around and proceeds to explain how the juniper
keeps itself alive under the harsh conditions of this environment.
I get my photo-op after the gang has departed.
Part of the tree dies off in order to keep the rest alive
Every canyon has its own personality. The next scamper takes us to an impressive amphitheater.
I had better catch up, lest I try our leader's patience
From here the route becomes a balancing act, as we check out one of the most special attractions of all.
This is why decent shoes are required
Surprise Arch
This amazing arch was discovered by the park superintendent fully
30 years after the park opened. That's how remote it is
inside the Fiery Furnace.
Even the bare rocks are spectacular
We are nearing the end of the trek. Ranger Karen says that we are but ten minutes from the trailhead. It proves to be more than that, but who cares.
These steps are the only man-made feature in the Fiery Furnace
Come to think of it, no cairns were in evidence on this tour. In fact, they are illegal here. Should a ranger encounter one, it would be destroyed immediately.
In late afternoon, the Fiery Furnace lives up to its name ⇔
§: In terms of trail mechanics, this could be the most varied
hike anywhere. Walking under natural bridges, scrambling through
arches, balancing on rock fins, hanging over chasms — this
tour has it all. Don't miss it.
Scenery | |
Difficulty | |
Personality | |
Solitude |