Arches National Park
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Devils Garden Arches National Park |
April 17, 2011
It has been fourteen years since I visited this park in good weather. I left a lot on the table back then; so it is time to rectify the situation. Having survived my tiring loop trip at Natural Bridges yesterday, I am raring to go again.
At the trailhead
The first mile of this trail is designed to accommodate the Sandal Set,
and there are plenty of such non-serious walkers out today.
Easy walking at first
Approaching the first arch
Within ten minutes I am rewarded by the sight of what surely is the most spectacularly delicate arch in existence.
Landscape Arch: 290 feet wide × 78 feet high × 6 feet
thick at the neck ⇔
Long considered the longest span in the world, it now is known (as of 2019) to rank only fifth behind three natural bridges and another arch, all of which are in China.
The tourists will be calling it quits here; for the next section of trail
is unsuitable for unprepared walkers, and that is a good thing. Landscape
Arch was a 'gimmee' and even is wheelchair-accessible, but the other special
attractions must be earned.
Scrambling up the slickrock
There has been no mention on signposts of this new arch on the trail
directly above me. Perhaps there is a plan — and surely
enough, a spur trail is about to lead me over there.
Around to the back side
Partition Arch
Albeit out of sight, a pair of hikers is lounging just on the other side
of the opening. Being able to get up-close-and-personal with
a sizable arch is a special treat.
This one is not an arch
The second fork leads to an interesting little alcove.
This arch is exquisite! It is one of the best-feeling
spots I have visited, and I have the place to myself for the moment.
Navajo Arch ⇔
Behind the arch is a little closed room of sorts, there being no other exit.
Back at the junction with the main trail, a young couple asks me about
the formations. I advise them to expect something extra-special
at Navajo Arch. (Later on the man agreed with me.) Soon afterwards,
I forgo the opportunity to photograph the jumbled remains of Wall Arch,
which collapsed in the summer of 2008.
Trying an alternative route
From here the trail ascends to the top of a fin. This is my kind of fun! Acrophobes and the faint of heart would not be comfortable here.
That reassuring cairn is nailed down
Exciting stuff
From this top-of-the-world vantage point, the vista eastward into Fin Canyon is spectacular.
There is another arch right at my feet! ⇔
Telephoto view of Black Arch
In the opposite direction is a first view of the next attraction:
Double O Arch ⇔
This is quite a popular spot. Hikers are hanging out all over the place.
No solitude here
Scrambling up and through the lower 'O,' I encounter a family of recent
transplants to Moab. The man offers me a cold orange soda, of all things,
which I eagerly accept. What a treat! The drink is accompanied by
dessert — an oreo cookie.
Also interested in a handout is the cutest chipmunk I ever saw:
A priceless pose
This side of the arch is much more photogenic.
Double-O Arch
A mile to the north is a lone 150-foot pillar called the Dark Angel. I had tentatively planned to hike up there, but a toe is bothering me severely. I don't wish to aggravate the condition now, having four or five more days of hiking on the schedule.
With a somewhat heavy heart, I also elect to pass on a planned continuation on the primitive loop; so I will miss the chance to see Private Arch. Bummer. Oh well, I must think ahead.
Dark Angel
It is time to remount the fin and head back. One particular stone step with a foothold cut into it is reminiscent of a spot on the Angels Landing Trail in Zion Park. Both have a steep dropoff on each side; the difference is that a handhold has been provided at that other place!
Atop the fin
No handrail here
The La Sal Mountains always are beautiful
At the steep exit from the rock fin, a mother and two children are crawling virtually prone up the slab. Is this even remotely necessary? Not for the kids, it isn't, but mother is not doing well; so I guess she assumes that the kiddies can't handle it either. Wrong. Dad, following behind them, is walking normally and sporting a sheepish grin. Wait until mom sees what is in store for her next!
"Yes, mother. This is humiliating, but yes, mother."
Back at Landscape Arch, I cannot resist an opportunity to get into the act.
A happy guy
Near the trailhead, another spur route leads to more stuff.
Tunnel Arch ⇔
They have found a special spot
Approaching the next attraction
An easy ten-minute walk achieves the goal:
Pine Tree Arch
What few flowers are out this spring are satisfying to find.
Canaigra Dock
Northwest Indian Paintbrush
The lofty couple is departing
A girl poses for a photo at an interesting dead-end slot. At the trailhead, even the overflow parking area is full. I almost feel guilty about taking the time to remove my boots while another group awaits a parking space.
§: In a park that sports more than 2,200 known arches, this
trail offers the best collection. Today I saw and photographed seven
significant arches, including the longest and possibly the most fragile
one on the planet, and I walked right underneath four of them.
Additionally, hiking atop a rock fin is exhilarating, if you like that
sort of thing. Day-hiking doesn't get any better than this.
| Scenery |  |
| Difficulty |  |
| Personality |  |
| Solitude |  |
