Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne Yosemite National Park

August 18, 2010 — Day 1

Having postponed the opportunity for decades, I have concluded that at my age, the only way that I might ever visit the famed Waterwheel Falls is by way of a multi-day expedition.  That is the primary focus of this trek.

The name 'Glen Aulin' means "beautiful valley".  Its original Gaelic pronunciation is "glee-an oh-lain"; but if you say it that way, no one will know what you are talking about; so "glenn ollun" it is.  A camp reservation, obtained via last year's lottery, is in my pocket; I am ready.

Although two shorter unmaintained routes are available, the official trailhead is at Soda Springs, near the Tuolumne Meadows stables.  Lots of vehicles line the roadside here; I park where I can, remove bear-attracting foodstuffs from the car, and set out northward on the Pacific Crest Trail.

Getting started in Tuolumne Meadows
That's not so far

From where I have parked, the route bypasses Soda Springs; so I will check out that attraction later.  Unexpectedly, the trail does not actually traverse the meadow; instead, it is a wide, dusty tramp through sparse trees and over granite slabs.  For the first couple of miles I can barely glimpse the meadow itself, and the river is nowhere in sight.  When I finally do reach a viewpoint, however, it is well worth the wait.

The Tuolumne River and the Cathedral Range

Passing a spur trail to Young Lakes, the path continues northwest, up and down through increasingly dense forest.  After nearly four miles, the anticipated footbridge appears, demarking the end of the meadows walk and the beginning of the canyon adventure.

The only ford on today's route
Up and over the rocks

Crossing the river on the PCT
The Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne begins right here

Beyond the footbridge the route becomes more interesting, and it descends more quickly.  Passing almost immediately next to some unnamed falls, I note how much prettier I found them last September, when the stream flow was even less than it is now.  Water volume is not everything.

The camp supply train
Trail maintenance worker

Quarry Peak on the right, 11161', is eleven miles away

Just below the footbridge

A mellow trail segment
Smokey Mariposa Lily

Loud, telltale sounds are emanating from the forest ahead.  My waterfall odyssey is about to begin!

Tuolumne Falls

This is as far as I ventured last year (Hike #68).  At that time I ate lunch beside these falls, then headed back, electing to save something for another time.  It is but a fifteen-minute scramble down the rest of the way to the camp.

Below the falls
Glen Aulin's water-supply intake

White Cascade

Two more footbridges provide access to the camp.  From the first one there is an outstanding view down the canyon.

Beautiful Peak 8886 is deserving of a real name

Glen Aulin Camp is smaller than I had anticipated.  There are 8 tents for 32 guests, plus 3 more for employees.  Modern toilets, a washroom with no showers, and an eating hall complete the package.  Contrary to some published literature, there are no gender restrictions on lodging allocations, nor are any needed.  My tent-mates are John, Pat, and Phyllis.  It so happens that John is the camp's senior visitor, being 85 years old!

The camp headquartersm library, and dining facility
My accommodations

Having arrived at 3 p.m., I take a little nap and rest my feet, then head down to the beach.  The omnipresent roar of White Cascade is a fact of life here at camp, so I might as well see it up close.

View from my tent

The water is not as inviting as it might appear
"My eyes are up here!"

At 6 o'clock a young woman emerges from the dining hall, clanging a triangular bell.  It is time for the Happy Hot-drink Half Hour.  Thirty minutes later the bell rings again, and the assembled crowd files into the big tent.

Just inside the door, another person is passing out bowls of tomato soup.  I elect to sit with my tent-mates at the corner table, which has room for eight diners.  My folding chair is just about ready for the trash heap, but that doesn't seem to matter much.

Tonight's main course is salmon, which I don't care for; the "vegetarian" plate — a cheese enchilada, is better than a piece of smelly orange fish anytime.  There is more than enough food to go around.  Corn bread, green salad, veggies, and chocolate cake complete the meal.

After dinner it is traditional for the staff members to come out and introduce themselves.  Why they are wearing pirate costumes tonight remains a mystery.

It's not even Halloween

It also is traditional for everyone to rush out at this time to view the sunset from the nearby rock outcropping.  As I arrive, the sun already is behind the hill; but that is fine.  I didn't come out here to stare at a blazing orb anyhow.  The real show is in the clouds; and tonight they are staging a pretty good performance.

Sunset at Glen Aulin

John, Pat, and Phyllis at the sunset viewpoint

What a difference five minutes can make!

Now it is time to scurry back down the rocky trail before darkness sets in.  A nice campfire awaits us; when that dies out, it is time for bed.  Some folk continue to read by flashlight, but I am interested only in attempting to get to sleep several hours earlier than usual.

I have to get into the act
Micro-managing the campfire

§: This has been a thoroughly enlightening and enjoyable day — my first in a High Sierra Camp.  One huge benefit of being distant from any road is that only nice people visit places such as this; and being in their company counts for a lot with me.

The real excitement commences tomorrow.