Yosemite National Park
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Budd Lake ~ Cathedral Lakes Loop Yosemite National Park |
July 14, 2009
Having planned this outing since last winter, I hope it lives up to its hype. The route has been so thoroughly studied that I haven't even bothered to pack a map.
As the trail to Budd Lake is unofficial, it is not marked on the maps.
One blog says to watch for it about a quarter-mile from the trailhead, but
it actually is more like half a mile in. The cutoff is easy to spot, being
more well-defined than my research had suggested.
Spur trail off the JMT
This route definitely is unmaintained
Shortly I encounter Budd Creek, which presumably will be more or less paralleled all the way up to the lake. In fact, the trail unexpectedly enters the river gorge in a number of places.
Budd Creek
Before long it becomes apparent that I have opted for the "scenic route", because this scrambling up and down through the canyon surely is not the method utilized by the many rock climbers who come this way headed for higher places. Come to think of it, there was something in that blog suggesting that one "keep right" at some point, which apparently I did not do.
Although the challenge is proving a bit tiring, I don't mind; for this
is one of the most unique and interesting routes I have traveled!
Just enough adventurers have passed this way to establish a path that can
generally be followed, but even at that there is some guesswork to do.
Once I find myself cliffed-out, making some backtracking necessary.
An interesting dichotomy of winter versus spring
Yep, that's the best way, dead ahead
Eventually I begin to spot some of the peaks that make this area such a
popular rock-climbing venue.
Cathedral Peak, 10912'
Unicorn Peak, 10910'
Cockscomb, 11065'
The landscape is leveling out now; perhaps the destination is near.
More trail variations — hard rock to soft grass
Budd Lake comes into view
Red heather and mountain laurel adorn the outlet, but efforts to
photograph them are thwarted by mosquitoes. Any attempt even to
stop for a breather results in an attack by literally dozens of
bloodthirsty vermin. Another application of repellent from a
handy-dandy towelette fails to have significant effect.
A glance at its packaging shows the mixture to contain 5.6% DEET,
which doesn't sound like a particularly high-powered
combination. I resolve to shop for something stronger should I
make it out of here alive.
Budd Lake and Cockscomb
At nearly 10,000 feet of elevation, it still is too early here for
comfort. It's a real shame that I am unable to properly enjoy
this really beautiful spot because of a few bugs that have no redeeming
value. And it's no wonder that camping is banned in this area;
a backpacker would be lucky to survive a night in this place!
(Actually, camping is prohibited within four miles of Highway-120
throughout the Tuolumne Meadows area, except at official facilities.)
A very pretty place
Lack of rest is becoming an issue as well, because the 1400-foot
climb through Budd Creek Gorge has left me panting. There is nothing
else to do, however, but to press on toward the saddle adjoining Cathedral
Peak, which will be the elevation high-point of the day.
Eureka! The top of the hill is warm and dry. I actually am
able to stop, sit down, take a drink, and contemplate my existence without
being assaulted by vampires. Also, there are great photo-ops
in every direction from this vantage point at 10,120 feet.
Cathedral Saddle is on the left
Echo Peaks from the saddle
The Sierra Crest and northeastern park boundary
First view of Cathedral Lakes Basin
Thus far, I have encountered nary a soul on my journey. Now I begin to hear voices of rock climbers shouting at each other. I didn't spot the guy on distant Echo Peaks until after I had returned home, because he was more than a mile away at the time:
Close-up of Echo Peaks, 11160'
A solitary climber at left-center
John Muir made the first recorded ascent of Cathedral Peak (which
was so named six years earlier) during his initial visit to Tuolumne
in 1869. Afterwards he said, "This I may say is the first
time I have been at church in California". The last part of
his effort was bona fide Class-4, making it the most difficult
known climb yet done in the Sierra — and with no equipment
other than sturdy boots!
Majestic Cathedral Peak is the area's youngster at 83 million years
Muir's route was the only one used for the next 76 years. Today,
several options are available, which is a good thing; on weekends climbers
sometimes must wait in line for their chance at glory. There even
are designated traffic-control spots on the side of the cliff,
enabling climbers to pass each other safely — albeit slowly.
Two climbers at the summit, on the right
800 feet above me
Even though I had the foresight to bring my camera with the longest
lens, 420 mm of telephoto still isn't quite getting the job done,
and shooting hand-held doesn't help the cause either.
Next time I'll come even better-prepared, for it is fun to capture
the climbers in action.
From here it is an easy 500-foot downhill scamper on mostly solid granite to Upper Cathedral Lake, the smaller of the pair.
Upper Cathedral Lake and Tresidder Peak, 10620'
It is quite lovely around here. Crystal-clear water is flowing all over the place throughout the big meadow.
Upper Cathedral Lake
Land shark!
The second lake is not far away, but a high cliff stymies a direct connection. Judging from a map, an enterprising soul could shortcut the walking distance by at least half a mile with adequate planning.
Spur trail to the lower lake
Yellow-bellied marmot
This lake also features a big meadow on its eastern side. Groups of hikers are testing various routes to avoid getting their feet wet.
Approaching the lower lake
Again, water is flowing every which way
The mosquitoes are not as prevalent on this side of the mountain.
I have time to munch a little trail mix while soaking my somewhat sore
feet in the lake. It seems that I have hiked nearly six miles
already, most of it virtually cross-country.
Lunch time at Lower Cathedral Lake
Photographic opportunities abound as I explore the area around the outlet.
The original plan was to continue north up to nearby Medlicott Dome and the high point beyond; however, I am all but worn out. Doubtless my having begun the day 250 miles away at elevation zero has diminished my capacity.
I manage to save about a quarter-mile of travel by bushwhacking northeast toward the JMT. This ploy might not be saving any time, but I didn't like that other section of trail.
A shortcut through the thick forest
Back on the John Muir Trail
Shortly, the famous Eichorn Pinnacle comes into view. It is a
50-foot needle that comprises Cathedral Peak's western summit.
Eichorn Pinnacle, 10720'
Is that the same guy still atop Cathedral Peak?
So near, yet so far: climbers on each high point,
1,500 and 1,200 feet above ⇔
This formation's namesake, Jules Eichorn, was a pioneer Sierra climber,
being the first to scale this one, in 1931. Jules was introduced to
rock climbing at age 15 by his piano teacher — a certain
Ansel Adams. That outing was "probably the greatest single event
in my outdoor life", he told a Sierra Club interviewer in 1982.
Eichorn paid for his piano lessons by washing photographs in the Adams
family bathtub; later he would serve as Ansel's "mule", carrying
heavy equipment into the wilderness. Today, three mountain peaks and
a memorial grove in Big Basin Redwoods State Park carry the Eichorn name.
The last three miles of the walk consist of a 300-foot uphill, followed by a thousand feet of switchbacks down to the highway. This section of trail is particularly uninviting, with little to see but one mountain and one butterfly. It's just a hot and dusty means to an end.
Some variety of Blue
Luckily, my boredom is mitigated by the company of fellow hiker Michael,
who keeps me going with non-stop chatter. I trust that I have
answered his question about how Ansel Adams got all his camera equipment
up the mountain.
The only view in the last three miles
The most interesting place on this trail
§: Today was a real eye-opener. The scenery was exceptional,
and negotiating the Budd Creek gorge was a lot of fun. Mosquitoes,
however, put a real downer on the entire trek. I'll not again venture
to Tuolumne Meadows this early in the season; it simply isn't worth it.
Bundling up in a cocoon of netting just isn't my idea of quality time.
Yes, there might be fewer flowers and less water later in the season; but that's
too bad. It seems that one cannot readily enjoy this place at its best.
Note: Four days after this hike, I still have itchy lumps on my
arms. I have found some towelettes with a 25%-DEET mixture;
those should prove a lot more effective. Also, there are spray
compounds for "extreme conditions" featuring a 98% mix.
Of course, using non-DEET preparations would be preferable for health
reasons; I will try one of those as well. And by the way, mine is not
the first journal to reference the Budd Lake Horde.
| Scenery |  |
| Difficulty |  |
| Personality |  |
| Adventure | |
| Mosquitoes |  |
| Solitude |  |
