Ted's Special Places A Day on Lake Powell, Arizona-Utah

October 22, 2018

For the last scheduled outing on this long hiking tour, I opt to treat my buddy Gary to something that I know he never would plan for himself.  An eight-hour cruise on what is arguably the most scenic reservoir in the world will include a short hike to what is inarguably the most beautiful natural bridge in the world.

Partly because the skies are so photogenic today, I would share a few images, most of which are not included in my journal of the actual hike to Rainbow Bridge.

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The tour begins early

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Departing Wahweap Marina

The Captain takes a short detour to show us that the dam is still there.

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The back side of Glen Canyon Dam
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The ubiquitous coal-fired power plant

That huge facility, one of the greatest polluters in the country, is scheduled finally to be phased out by next year; but there is corporate (and now governmental) resistance to that (government) plan.

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Passing by the Antelope Point Marina

The boat ramp here was closed two weeks ago due to the low water level.  For the same reason, the Castle Rock Cut, a channel blasted through to enable boaters to save an hour's time in each direction, is so shallow that its usage is currently discouraged.

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Not all of the lake's houseboats are that big

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Tower Butte

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Nice clouds

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Nice lighting

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When I first visited here in 1970, the lake was still filling up for the first time; so there was no unsightly bathtub ring.  Now, it is 112 feet high.

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The ring will not 'wear off' for an estimated 200 years

The boat captain explains that the lake will not be allowed to fill again, because doing so enables water to encroach upon Rainbow Bridge itself.  That is a no-no because Navajo lawsuits citing religious freedom regarding the site have prevailed in federal courts.  Further reassurance by the Captain that, "The water situation is otherwise good", however, is downright ludicrous, because nothing could be further from the truth (see Addendum).

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After about fifty miles of steaming up the main channel, our boat cuts off to the right into one of the dozens of side canyons.

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Entering Forbidding Canyon

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This is wonderful!  As the canyon walls close in on us, everything becomes more interesting and more exciting.  A slot barely wide enough for a boat might be a hundred feet deep or more.  There is nothing like this place elsewhere.

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Is there room to squeeze through?
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Yes, there is

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Many buoys warn boaters of shallow areas

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Narrow passage

Abruptly, our progress is terminated.  It's time to go hiking!  Excepting a demanding multi-day trek from the south, this is the only way to see the incomparable Rainbow Bridge, which was set aside as a national monument by President Taft in 1910.

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The pier has room for many boats

 For a journal of the hike itself, see Addendum 

After a delightful 90-minute walk, the passengers return, and the boat departs the marina.

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A strange double arch

No sooner do we leave the dock than some raindrops appear.  Our group was incredibly lucky to avoid them on the actual hike.

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These folk will head below soon, as the downpour increases

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Farewell to Forbidding Canyon

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The Heart

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Patterns

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Colors

One benefit of a rain squall is the relatively rare appearance of waterfalls on the canyon walls.

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What a treat

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Shot through the boat window, unfortunately

Ugh!  My one regret today is the inexplicable failure to pack a water-tolerant camera.  Great photos are being missed.

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An unnamed arch

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Where the richies stash their toys

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This enterprising hiker found a way down the rocks

Perhaps I'll do that myself on my next trip through here.

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I'd like to do that as well

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The power plant creates its own weather

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Wahweap Marina


§: Do visit this ultra-beautiful place while you still can; it's a one-of-a-kind experience.  In truth, though, renting a little boat and exploring the side canyons can be much more rewarding — provided, of course, that you don't miss the walk to Rainbow Bridge.

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ADDENDUM

In fact, the water situation regarding Lake Powell, Lake Mead, and the forty million people being supported by them is dire, and no viable solution presents itself.  Compounding the problems are a projected doubling of the affected population within forty years, plus a further substantial reduction of water flow due to a decreasing snowpack in the Rocky Mountains.  Unless the ongoing climatic trends somehow abate soon, parts of Arizona and Nevada will have to begin rationing water.

Update: On August, 16, 2021, the government finally officially recognized how dire the situation really is.  What they plan to do about it is another matter.


For a journal of the wonderful hike, go here:  <Hike to Rainbow Bridge>

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