Phillip Burton Wilderness
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Alamere Falls Phillip Burton Wilderness |
April 29
This outing with my Bay Area Connection has been in the planning for some time.
Social commitments on both ends have brought us here on a Saturday, which means that
for both vehicles, arriving just before nine-o'clock was barely early enough to
avoid a lengthy walk to the trailhead
Fintan has brought his college-student son, Declan, a newcomer to the group.
As promised, I have supplied a 48-foot rope, replete with knots for handholds, in case
it might be useful on the cliff-side scramble next to the falls; although we
anticipate that a rope already will be in place. It weighs next to nothing; so
Allen is happy to carry if for me, because there isn't room in my own lumbar pack.
Getting started at 9 a.m.
I also have brought along a double-dose of poison oak. One arm was infected
about three weeks ago, and the other arm just four days ago. It seems fitting that
the first photo-op I encounter is the dreaded urushiol-oil-bearing plant.
Pacific Poison Oak — the prettiest I ever saw
French Broom
Silver Lupine
Cow Parsnip
Redneck Rhody
A Gray Whale surfaces periodically
A piece of Bowltube Iris
Coastal Bluff Morning Glory
Douglas Iris
Rattlesnake Grass
Pacific Pea
Bluedicks
Wild Cucumber
Coast Indian Paintbrush
Yes, the flowers are out in great numbers, as expected; I won't have time to log them all.
Fields of 6-foot-high Cow Parsnip are everywhere today
Western Swordfern
Hypocreaceae Fungi
This little bunny never moves; it either is injured or 'hiding'
Giant Vetch
Horseweed
Water droplets and cobwebs on the Giant Horsetail
Seep Monkeyflower
Bass Lake appears
Thimbleberry
Sowthistle
Water hazard
Perhaps I should have worn waterproof boots today; I might need them later.
Twinberry Honeysuckle
Autumn Hawkbit
A better view of Bass Lake
Harlequin Flower — the only one I have seen in the wild
After nearly four miles of travel, it is time to start watching for the shortcut
turnoff. Marked on maps as the 'Alamere Falls Trail', it was closed for a time
in 1914 after storm damage. Now, although the signpost has disappeared, the route's
usage is permitted albeit highly discouraged, primarily because of the dangerous
cliff-side scramble. In fact, although the Search & Rescue squad is
pressed into service regularly around here, the Park Service specifically disavows all
liability for injuries incurred off an officially maintained route. We'll take
our chances, though.
Walter finds the 'secret' entrance to the shortcut
This section reminds me of Alice's Rabbit Hole
On the way down the next four-tenths of a mile, we pass a couple dozen hikers coming back up. In a couple of places, one even must step off the route briefly to allow others to pass between the rows of tall plants.
Salmonberry
Seaside Daisy
I hope that these sections are not riddled with you-know-what
Presently, we emerge at the top of the hill overlooking the big water.
The hard work starts here
Negotiating the first obstacle with some seat-of-the-pants maneuvers
At the base of this channel is a most pleasant surprise, which would be totally
unexpected for any newcomer to this place — a series of three little
falls above the principal attraction.
Upper Fall #1 is especially appealing
The big fall remains out of sight
Upper Fall #2
The exceptional water-flow this spring has caused a problem, for there is no easy way to cross the creek! Something must be done, however, in order to continue.
"I don't wanna do this," she says
Well, I don't wanna try that either, especially without the waterproof boots that I
left at home. Eventually, several of us manage a 4-foot jump farther
downstream, with a helpful hand awaiting us on the other side. This is not a good
spot to try to jump in the other direction, however.
Upper Fall #3
Once across the creek, we make our way over to the cliff to see what lies ahead. This is as far as David and I got eleven years ago on Hike #154.
Wow! There sure are a lot of people down there
More Seaside Daisies
Bluff Lettuce
It is time to look at the dreaded cliff-side passage. I judge that most of the crowd below used it, because they haven't had time to go around the long way. Last time, nobody was on the beach, because there was no rope to use.
There is indeed a long skinny rope in place, and it is being used. My own rope, with its included knots for handholds, would be more helpful, but it would not have been long enough. The only place to anchor a rope securely is well above the start of the downward passage.
Despite knowing that such a scramble always looks scarier from the top, Walter is
sufficiently put off to decline the attempt as not being worth the risk. Although
I doubtless would have tried it if everyone else had, this venture should be an
all-or-none affair as far as I am concerned.
Why I forget to take any pictures at this time remains a mystery, but in any case
it is time for Plan-B, a 5-mile loop up to Wildcat Camp and down the
beach, in order to reach the base of the falls. At that time, we will assess our
interest in climbing up the shortcut route, which would save four miles of walking.
To get back across the creek, most of us help each other to use the "I don't wanna do this" section after all, managing not to plunge into the water. A misstep here could have created a serious problem.
California Poppy
Cow Parsnip
Back on the Coast Trail, we turn northward. This will be new territory for me.
Walter sets the pace, as usual
Overlooking Stormy Stack
Mindful that we now are are walking ever farther from the trailhead, I hope that I don't wear out on what is shaping up to be my longest outing in many years.
I sure hope that we don't have to climb the trail up that distant ridge
No luck. The trail goes up before it goes down. Bummer
The climb proves worthwhile after all, however; for at the top there is a stunning
vista of our destination and my favorite photo-op of the day.
An amazing view from two miles away...
...but we need to get down to that beach
Point Reyes is well to the north
More northward travel is required before we can turn downhill toward the water.
Ocean Lake
Finally heading toward the beach
Italian Thistle
The Mule Deer show their disdain
On the beach at last
Just over a mile to go
Some attention must be paid to the ocean for this to work; for at high tide a traverse of Wildcat Beach becomes impossible, and one could become trapped for quite a while in a highly uncomfortable situation.
Should the tide roll in, one probably could escape up that way
Nice colors!
Getting closer
At long last we arrive, after nearly eight miles of walking. Oh, my!
Alamere Fall, 40'
The high streamflow is putting on quite a show.
At high tide, the water falls directly into the sea
This is one of just two tide falls in the continental United States, and only this one can be closely accessed. (For the record, there are only 34 tide falls in the world.)
Declan contemplates a climb
This is why I go hiking
Like it or not, the crux of the mission is at hand. Judging from all the sizes and shapes of people preparing to climb the cliff, it rates not to be that difficult; however, those folk are not 81 years old, either.
A waiting line at the exit, due to the two-way traffic
Walter, who is slightly older than even I, starts up first. Usage of the rope
proves problematical for me because of the angles involved and the lack of useful knots,
but I would have been hard-pressed to make it up otherwise. As it is,
I receive a helpful boost from Fintan at the critical juncture, and that is enough.
Fintan is halfway up, waiting for the line to clear
Allen soon follows
As we await Declan's ascent, a horser ambles by
Quite a bit time passes for reasons unknown; finally Declan makes his appearance, carrying three hiking poles including mine. We have made it — almost; there still is the matter of repeating the creek crossing. Fintan soaks both feet to help Allen across, but soon it is done. Mission accomplished!
Chilean Ice Plant
Another waiting line on the final climb
After that minor struggle, we can relax. The hard parts all are behind us. I am feeling really good right now.
A well-earned snack break
Presently, Ms. "Airplane Mode" approaches, thanking 'us' profusely for assistance with the climb. Apparently, one or more of my companions had been doing more down below than just standing around.
"You've made this one of the best days of my life!" she exclaims
Salmonberry
Coast Indian Paintbrush
Back up the Rabbit Hole for a second time
I cannot resist a reprise shot as we pass the lone Harlequin Flower for the
third time today
The view of Bass Lake has improved
Amanita Fungi
Narrowleaf Plantain
Douglas Fir
Eucalyptus
The remaining 3-mile slog will be pleasant enough, especially in later afternoon
Miner's Lettuce
Milkmaids
Woolly Sunflower
More Morning Glories -aka- False Bindweed
The ocean is shimmering
Bolinas is hidden in the trees
A man stops me on the trail, inexplicably inquiring of my age. When I tell him,
he requests a photo of the two of us. Then I offer to make him and his friend
world-famous by featuring their photo on this page, so here it is.
Miriam and Alex
Crazy Alex would do well not to brandish his pipe so flagrantly, however, because marijuana usage remains illegal on federal lands.
Nearing the finish
§: Well, I certainly got my uncommon experience today, and the unqualified
successes of our venture merit this outing a top rating. Well done, all!
Today exceeded all expectations, and I wasn't even a bit sore at the end.
Simply planning to walk the long way in both directions would reduce the overall
mileage to 11.2 by my (accurate) GPS readings, but in so doing all views of the delighful
upper falls would be missed; so there is a trade-off.
There also is the option of accessing the falls from the Bear Valley Visitor Center,
by combining a 9-mile walk with six miles of very easy bike riding.
| Scenery |  |
| Difficulty | |
| Personality |  |
| Adventure | |
| Flowers | |
Here's a short video of the falls:
