Ted's Hiking World Lower Hackberry Canyon
Grand Staircase-Escalante
National Monument, Utah

April 22, 2018

Having just done a little walk up at Kodachrome Basin State Park, I have continued down the unpaved Cottonwood Canyon Road, traveling south of Grosvenor Arch for the first time ever.  Although I had not necessarily planned a hike in here, there is some unique and beautiful scenery on this byway:

*

*
Candy Land

*
A portion of The Cockscomb formation

* *

At some juncture I stop at a trailhead named Lower Hackberry Canyon.  Knowing nothing about it, I decide to give it a try.  Having not bothered to don my boots, and learning immediately that I must ford a creek, I abandon the walk and continue down the road.

Two slow miles later, I stop.  Having no real planned itinerary for today, I am flexible; but there were a dozen cars in that parking lot, and there even was a trail register.  So I drive back the two miles and park again.

---

A woman signing the register says that she just saw a couple of mountain sheep up in the canyon.  I hope to do the same.

*
At the trailhead

*
Across the road, a hawk doesn't care

This time I put on my boots and plan to do it right.

*
The creek is but an inch deep

It seems that stream crossings will be the order of the day in here.  My waterproof boots have no trouble with the shallow passages, which never are more than an inch or two deep.

*
The red sand makes the water look dirty, but it isn't

*
Entering Hackberry Canyon

*
A great place to be on Earth Day

This canyon is part of the 800-mile Hayduke Trail, a route designed by Edward Abbey to showcase the redrock experience of the American Southwest.  The trail connects six national parks, several wilderness areas, and many other features, all on public land.

*
Company approaches

*
The canyon narrows

*
More hikers ahead
*
The creek-bottom rocks are beautiful

*
Aha!  A waterfall

Up to now at least, this walk could have been done barefoot simply by staying in the sandy-bottomed creek.

*
Now a few rocks are present in the stream

I encounter a family of three with two barking mutts.  Hailing from Flagstaff, they spend a lot of time here and elsewhere in Redrock Country.  When I mention Buckskin Gulch as a possible outing, the man says that they have been there about thirty times and that the water should be chest-deep right about now.

This means that I need to rethink my schedule.  Instead of camping out at the Buckskin Gulch trailhead, I could stay in Kanab tonight and continue to Los Angeles tomorrow to visit my convalescent hiking partner, saving a day in the process.  Yes, I believe I'll do that.  Besides, I know where to get a great cheeseburger in Kanab.

*

The man also says that this canyon is eleven miles long, but that it soon opens up.  I will check it out.

*
What an interesting and lovely spot

Less than a mile farther up, the canyon does disappear, and so does my interest in continuing upstream.

*
End of the line for me

I have traveled nearly three miles already.  That's enough.

*

*
Kingcup Cactus conference

*
Starting back

*
The doggie isn't barking at me anymore

My new camera has a greater pixel resolution that the others, so it picks up more details:

*
What looks like a bird in the sky actually is a butterfly

*

Now, I am not even bothering to access all the creekside trail-segments.  Much of the time, I am content simply to slosh down middle of the creek.  Even if my socks were to get wet, it wouldn't matter.

*
Opting for the tunnel route

*
Pretty

*

*
They all are barefoot

*
The creek bottom is the only trail

*
Nearing the end of the canyon

* *

Nifty patterns

Almost too soon, this delightful excursion is finished.

*
Exiting the canyon

*
The hawk still doesn't care, but it has changed perches


§: What a wonderful experience, and I nearly missed it!  Traversing a wet slot canyon so easily is new to me.  I highly recommend the 'go barefoot' option, although one's mileage could be limited without reverting to footwear at some point.

Once again, my lack of homework had let me down.  Apparently, there are some eminently photographable dinosaur tracks on a canyon wall in there; but I wasn't looking for them.  The panel's location even is published online.

In any case, I recommend that you not go here unless there is water in the creek.  Returning here the next year with a friend, we found the wash dry — and boring.

Scenery *
Difficulty *
Personality *

*


---

AFTERWARDS

A subsequent visit to the nearby BLM Visitor Center revealed that Buckskin Gulch off the Wire Pass Trailhead would indeed be water-laden at this time; that's the stuff of another trip.

*
More scenery on Cottonwood Canyon Road

*
Two other photographers have stopped here as well

Go Back