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Rifugio Nuvolau |
September 14, 2014
Getting onto a bus here can be a challenge; it's a dog-eat-dog affair
at the doorway. Any semblance of politeness does not exist. I have
found it helpful to poke out my walking stick to one side or the other; that
usually holds back a couple of people. Once in a seat, however, one need
never vacate it. No frail old lady ever needs your chair; in fact, I have
not seen a frail old lady in Italy. Everyone seems quite fit around here.
There are no stoplights in these mountains; traffic flow is handled adequately by roundabouts. Also virtually absent are "no passing" zones; everyone passes whenever and wherever they damned well please. The roads are so narrow that it's a wonder that there are not a lot more traffic accidents. Once, a big truck with a trailer was compelled to back up a couple hundred feet, around a corner, just to make room for our bus.
Our guidebook lists numerous choices of trails up here in the Passo Falzarego area. One involves a long, dark tunnel, while others offer different challenges. It's a tough decision; but finally I opt for a loop that is less technical, yet which should provide Dave and me plenty enough of interest to make us happy.
Finding the trailhead proves a bit tricky. Our guidebook mentions the
base of the winter-only chair lift near Rifugio Col Gallina, but Dave
manages to locate some trail signs a few hundred feet to the left (east).
A more difficult route on the other side of the highway
Rifugio Lagazuoi is 2,100 feet above us, but we are headed elsewhere
The first mile or so of trail is nondescript climbing through a forest and an open section or two.
So far, there is no hint of what is to come
Lakes are nice to find, for there aren't all that many of
them in these mountains
Lago Limedes
Now it is time for the first serious climbing of the day. The nice morning lighting makes the travel all the more enjoyable.
Now you see her...
...now you don't
Lago Limedes reprise
This is why I go hiking
Looking back at 10,600-foot Tofana de Rozes, with Rifugio
Lagazuoi in the upper left corner
Approaching Forcella Averau. This is exciting
We won't be visiting that distant outpost
"Queen of the Dolomites", 10,968-foot Marmolada is the range's highest point
Purple Marshlocks
Rifugio Averau is not getting much attention
It is understandable that that facility is not as popular as its counterpart, which awaits us higher up.
Heading for the mountain top
It's only another 400 feet
In the next portrait my wedding ring is shining — a sure indicator that my sweetie is here in spirit:
Fashion plate of the Dolomites ⇔
The most direct route for the final ascent digresses from the maintained
trail briefly. Clambering straight up this rock proves challenging,
at least for me, because in one slippery place there are no decent handholds.
Although only I seem to be having any problem, only I am being
extra-careful. One broken wrist per year is enough.
It looks easy enough, but I did not find it so
Averau
That infant is holding his own
Getting closer
Rifugio Nuvolau and its spectacular setting
The next seven photos all were shot from a nearby concrete platform probably designed as a helicopter pad:
Great lighting on Cinque Torri (Five Spires)
This is why I came to Italy
My favorite photo of my trip to Europe ⇔
Click here for the same view at 4x resolution: Tofana de Rozes
Telephoto view of the avalanche fence seen above
Can you spot the hikers on the trail just below the fence?
From here it is a long way down. This time we stay on the provided trail, avoiding the steep rocky section. It takes us down below Rifugio Averau, but that is the direction we wish to go.
There is a high trail leading northward from the rifugio along the mountain side, and it's not on our map; but it seems right for us to follow the service road downhill for a while, and that proves correct.
Over by Cinque Torri are Rifugio Scoiattoli, a chair lift, and an alternate trail down to the highway. I would be in favor of the additional mileage and additional views, but there is some mild concern over the bus schedule. If we miss the next one, there might not be another until tomorrow; so Dave and I begrudgingly opt for the shortest way back.
It looks so inviting over there in the sunlight
Once around the corner of the hill, the remainder of the walk is pretty soggy going
Eventually we reach a marshy meadow at Pian dei Menis, from which the trail parallels the highway uphill to our trailhead.
Traffic sounds are minimal for much of the way
Finishing up a multi-day climbing expedition
Five Spires reprise
Red Clover at the bus stop
§: This hike has it all — easy trail, some difficult going,
a plethora of spectacular views, and as many as five different rifugios that
can be visited. In retrospect, this could be my favorite outing of our
entire trip. Admittedly, some of that sentiment might be based upon
the fact that this was the last major hike we would take in decent weather.
It also appears that we really blew the route planning. On the trail past the Five Spires, there is a lengthy series of restored battle trenches that would have been far more interesting than the path we took. On top of that, we surely could have caught the bus at Bai de Dones, the base of the chair lift, resulting in a walk of about the same total mileage. I should have been more proactive in the planning; then I could have given this hike a top rating.
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| Solitude |  |
