Sequoia National Park
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Watchtower Trail Sequoia National Park |
September 12, 2013
Having been run out of my normal haunts by forest fire smoke that has rendered the Northern Sierra uninhabitable for nearly a month, I have driven farther south than usual to find a hike worth taking. This one has been on my bucket list for quite a while.
There are many options ⇔
A choice of destinations
After loading the provided bear locker with a variety of goodies, I set
out into the forest. It soon proves warmer than expected, so I wish
to stash an unneeded long-sleeved shirt. A spot adjoining a
trail junction seems like a good choice, because presumably I will know
where to look for it later.
Easy but unexciting walking
Perhaps I will do the loop
Turning left on the Watchtower Trail, I traipse steadily up the path for three and a half miles before seeing anything that qualifies as scenery.
Approaching an overlook, I hope
Now we're getting somewhere. The unusual rock formation in front of me, shown on my map only as Peak 8973, is nicknamed according to its appearance from the Tokopah Falls Trail in the valley below.
The Watchtower
Interesting slabs
I can barely make out the sounds of falling water. Tokopah Falls is just around the corner to the right; I'll not be in position to see that cascade today, however, and there's a good chance that it is virtually dry anyhow.
The top end of Tokopah Valley
From here the trail becomes quite interesting. It clearly was cut here solely as the most scenic possible route, for there were other options.
The cliff-side trail looks exciting
This is the kind of trail that the Park Service won't make anymore, because such practice is deemed unnecessarily invasive; but since they already exist, many such legacy CCC constructions are maintained in this and other parks.
Kinda scary, but not exposed
Looking back
The trail ahead
Within a quarter-mile or so, I reach my initial planned destination
after a 2,000-foot climb.
Heather Lake
It is very pleasant here today
These guys are following me around the edge of the lake
Heather Lake from two more angles
Not being ready to turn back yet, I press on, ascending another
couple-hundred feet to a high point. The trail's continuation
to Pear Lake can be seen angling up the far cliff, but I don't believe I
will go that far today.
Aster Lake is 300 feet below
Peak 10561 on the left
I was hoping for a good view of Emerald Lake, which could relieve me of the need to go all the way down there in order to take a photograph. The lake insists upon hiding in the trees, however; so I must complete the journey after all.
To my pleasant surprise, the area supports a very nice campground and a
3-hole composting potty, which I gratefully use. After dumping
in the requisite cup of wood chips, I must find the lake itself.
Approaching the lake
Unexpected comfort
Approaching the water, I pass by two tented campsites. At lakeshore, one of the campers has just caught a nice fishy. At least, I guess it's a nice fishy; I really wouldn't know.
Fishing for lunch?
Look what I caught!
This place is just as I anticipated — another spectacular setting.
Emerald Lake
A rock shelf runs along the near shoreline just below the surface. This is a perfect spot for dangling tired feet in the water, which proves not to be particularly cold despite the exalted elevation. If no one else were around, I would jump in; but I don't know how the fishers would feel about a lack of swimming attire. I couldn't give a damn myself.
A great lunch spot
It is calm and perfectly warm here. I am tempted to nap for a while,
but I must allow time for the dreadfully boring drive home that will take about
five hours at warp-speed.
Each campsite has a bear locker
Emerald Pond
The camp proves not to be squeaky-clean after all. At one site I pick up half a dozen pieces of litter for my collection.
Nifty colors in the rocks ⇔
Heather Lake reprise
Now I am at a crossroads. The trail back along the cliff near the
Watchtower is inviting; but the loop option is shorter. Finally, I opt
for the new trail segment, which necessitates another 200-foot climb.
More choices
Top of The Hump
This segment of trail is well-used, but it is even more dusty and boring than expected. Already I am regretting my choice of routes, yet it is too late now. I increase my pace so as to get it over with as quickly as possible, stopping only to replenish drinking water from a tiny spring.
The trail is thoroughly uninteresting on top, but better down below
Back at the critical junction, I retrieve the shirt that I had left. Right next to it are a couple of backpacks that also have been stashed. So much for selecting a hiding place that no one else would see!
Several backpacks are sharing my 'secret' spot
For the final couple of miles, I don my Walkman to help pass the time. As it would happen, my favorite female vocal track pops up randomly. When I pass by a couple of hikers with quizzical looks on their faces and a few tears on mine, I can only smile and point to my electronic headgear, hoping that they might understand.
§: Two-thirds of today's mileage was in thick forest, where there
is little to see. Heather and Emerald Lakes are worth any effort,
however, and the short cliff-side trail segment will get your juices
flowing. I recommend avoiding the boring Hump Trail unless you aren't
up for the excitement of the other one.
| Scenery |  |
| Difficulty | |
| Personality |  |
| Solitude | |
The route (clockwise loop)
