Torres del Paine NP, Chile
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Paine Towers Overlook Torres del Paine NP, Chile |
March 18, 2012
Sunrise over the camp
Having spent the night sleeping virtually on the ground, I am a bit stiff
and sore. A group breakfast is served at 8 a.m., about half an
hour after sunrise. At nine o'clock it is time to start walking.
The weather outlook being positive, it is decided that we will do the hardest
of the planned hikes today, while the going is good.
We begin with a mile-long walk toward the actual trailhead, past the hotel where mostly less adventurous types are hanging out, and over a bridge not designed for heavy usage.
The hotel where we did not stay
Two at a time is the limit
Our guide, Claudio, shows us how steep the route will be
After a long, relentless uphill, the trail leads down a couple hundred feet toward a refugio by the river. I tend to hang out at the rear of the pack, my excuse being so many photo stops.
Approaching Refugio Chileno
Albeit officially closed for the season, the refugio's potty is operational; so we take advantage of that. Shortly beyond here, we get a first glance at the objective:
The Paine Towers come into view
Into the forest
There are many fun water crossings
Claudio suggests that we stoke up on energy bars here, in preparation for the final ascent of 400 meters in just one kilometer. That's more than a 40% average gradient!
Chile's counterpart to Smokey the Bear
Snack time
Actually, scrambling up the terminal moraine proves not to be particularly difficult. At least there is an occasional switchback here, unlike the hellish conditions we encountered back on Cerro Piltriquitrón.
It's like entering Valhalla
Shortly, the cirque lake comes into view below the magnificent trio of towers, the tallest of which rises 6,350 feet above the water. My single good eye is finding it difficult to gauge the true scale of the surroundings. Oh, my!
This is why we came to Patagonia
The lake is a predictable milky-green, due to the glacial silt suspended in the water. Nearly all of the lakes this close to the Andes are similarly affected by glaciers.
David gets into the act with some guys sporting the Catalonian flag
Very happy to be here
Me, too
Some nearby formations
It is time to check out the rest of our provided packed lunch — a pint of diced chicken with rice and veggies, a ham and cheese sandwich, and a banana.
There are hikers all over the place, clambering through the talus for a
good photo-op. Some of them opt to scramble down to the lake
shore to test the water. I can guess, however, what the temperature is;
so I'll remain here in the shelter of a big boulder, out of the wind.
My camera also is happy to be here
Now all that remains is to get back down the hill — 2,800 feet over six miles.
Beginning the descent
Last view of the towers
Back at the climbers-only refugio, where no carbonated refreshment is
available today
Rio Ascensio
Nice patterns in the rock
The uphill retracement looms
A final look at Valle Ascensio
The spectacular Chacabuco Range to the south conceals the Pacific Ocean
Nearing the end of the line
As we come off the trail, the towers area is completely engulfed
in clouds. We seem to have been quite lucky weather-wise.
We got down from there just in time
§: The park's namesake monoliths are its principal attractions,
and it is no wonder that folks venture here from all over the world to see
them first-hand. Visiting the towers up close was
exhilarating. The Mirador Las Torres is easily one of the most
stunningly beautiful places on the planet.
It is most fortunate that the Ascensio Valley area was spared the ravages of the December fire that consumed some seven percent of the parklands. Many if not most of the popular trails here have been more or less permanently devastated.
Scenery notwithstanding, I am delighted with today's accomplishment.
Both the elevation gain and total distance were my third-greatest
numbers ever for a day-hike, making this yet another uncommon experience.
| Scenery |  |
| Difficulty |  |
| Personality |  |
| Solitude |  |
