Yosemite National Park
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Half Dome Yosemite National Park |
September 21, 2011 — Day 3
The primary mission having been accomplished yesterday, our group of six still must make its way back to 'civilization'. With a final nostalgic look up at Half Dome, we head westward on the John Muir Trail. I observe that Jim is starting the day wearing real hiking boots. Doubtless he will swap them out before long, though.
Breaking camp
The back of Half Dome
Just a mile and a quarter down the trail, it is time for a seriously scenic break; for we have reached the brink of Nevada Fall. The overlook enables us to gaze straight down nearly 600 feet of cascade. I know of no other place in this country where one can do such a thing.
Nevada Fall is spectacular even this late in the season
Several of the others joke about the notion of climbing over the railing and dangling their legs off the edge of the cliff, and debating what financial inducement would be required for such inanity. I delight in this conversation, because I did that very thing on my first visit here. My brother did it as well, and I have the photographs to prove it.
Wondering whether I might be willing to do it again even now if the price were right, I admit that it would be unlikely to happen. Although it would not bother me to go out there right now, I already have enough exciting photos, and my sweetie would be distressed by such a stunt; so I will decline a repeat performance (see Retrospective).
At the brink
I sat on the far edge of that rock fifty years ago
This scene might be better in full sunlight ⇔
Glacier Point in the distance
Crossing the river just above the brink, we head over toward the cliff on the south side of the canyon, where there will be great views of the falls for quite a while.
The John Muir Trail
Half Dome, Mount Broderick, and Liberty Cap
This famous section of trail was hewn from solid rock in 1882-1884
by Scotsman George Anderson, largely at his own expense. Having been the first
man to climb Half Dome, in 1875, he subsequently had visions of opening a hotel near
what is now the permit checkpoint at the northeastern base of the monolith.
This road was intended to be suitable for horse-drawn wagons
Mr. Anderson's dream fizzled, but his legacy remains to our great benefit. Had he not constructed this convenient alternative to the Mist Trail, life would be more difficult for most Half Dome climbers today.
Lichen are everywhere
The only flowers seen on the entire trek are right in here, and there aren't many of them.
Pearly Everlasting
Penstemon
I forgive the photographer for cutting off our feet in the next photo:
The Sacramento Lemon Meringue Gang ⇔
Two hikers pass us carrying lawn chairs, of all things. Thinking that that behavior is unusual, we subsequently observe several others similarly equipped. Perhaps they all belong to some subversive cult or other.
Actually, I recall remarking that I could have used a hammock or other comfort at the campsite. Sitting on tree stumps was getting old after a while, and I was disinclined to isolate myself in a tent. Maybe I should join that cult.
This father and son team travels in 'style'
After a break at the tourist bridge where I give my hot, damp feet a
well-deserved rest, the group prepares to complete its odyssey.
Nevin asks me to show him the way to the abandoned Sierra Point Trail that
I had mentioned previously, suggesting that he might try it this afternoon.
The last lap
Another shuttle ride takes us back to Curry Village, where we check in our equipment on a picnic table, shake hands with one another, and part company. Wendell is headed for San Francisco to meet his wife who is flying in today. Jim also is headed to the Bay Area to continue his sightseeing tour of the western United States.
On the drive home, Dave, Ali, and I stop for lunch at a cafe at the top of Old
Priest Grade west of Groveland. It so happens that this establishment
is owned by Conrad Anker, the world-famous author and Mount Everest
climber who once was dubbed "The world's greatest adventurer"
by Outside Magazine. In light of our recent activities, that connection
seems somehow fitting as well.
North Dome and Royal Arches from the parking lot
§: It has been suggested that a Half Dome trek tends to be either the climax achievement of most folks' hiking careers, or the impossible dream of many who never made it. That seems like a reasonable assessment, because in retrospect I continue to marvel at what a grand and memorable experience this was.
Having had some a priori apprehensions regarding the potential difficulty of the overall journey, it pleasantly surprised me that I absorbed all the mileage and elevation gains with ease. I never ran short of energy, and I didn't get a bit sore from carrying a full pack or pulling myself up the cables. I would have taken bets against that.
My thanks to the weather man for providing us three absolutely perfect days. Also, many thanks to our guide Nevin, who did all the work and never complained.
Today:
Overall trip specs:
| Scenery |  |
| Difficulty |  |
| Personality | |
| Excitement | |
| Solitude |  |
REGARDING THE CABLE SECTION
Ignore all the scary hype!
Anyone in reasonable condition who doesn't suffer from altitude sickness, acrophobia, or dizzy spells, has little to fear from a Half Dome cable passage. If desired, a safety harness can be rented; and one can choose when or whether to use it. Don't be leery of accepting this challenge; it simply isn't that difficult.
There are but a few absolute requirements:
RETROSPECTIVE
In 2018, a man fell off the rock that overhangs the brink of Nevada Fall, and died. The difference between his stunt and ours was that my brother and I were content to sit on the rock; whereas the other guy hung off the edge by his fingertips, trying to capture the ultimate selfie.
