Ted's Hiking World Mount Elwell
Lakes Basin, Plumas NF

September 07, 2011

Having visited the Lakes Basin area several times over the last forty years, I did climb the area's major peak once a long time ago.  My sister Margaret is camping nearby, so I will try it again today with her company.

The most scenic route starts out southward, directly away from our primary objective; but soon it starts to circle back in the necessary direction.  We pass by three lakes in short succession; one is quite nice, but the other two are relatively uninteresting.

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Big Bear Lake

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Little Bear Lake
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Cub Lake

During the next climb of several hundred feet, it becomes clear that Margaret is not her usual self today.  Lagging behind and resting a lot, she normally walks quickly enough to keep me panting.

An interim high-point on our route provides a first view of Long Lake, the basin's biggest, and a first good look at the mountain on the lake's far side.

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Long Lake, 6555', and Mount Elwell, 7818'

Two more lakes and a couple of ponds follow in short order.

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Silver Lake

Beside this lake is a trail junction.  The sign says to turn right for Mount Elwell, but that route would necessitate an immediate descent of 500 feet which must shortly be regained, resulting in a 1,300-foot switchback up the mountain.  With another plan in mind, I steer us westward up the ridge toward the Pacific Crest Trail.

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Silver Lake
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Helgramite Lake

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A well-graded ascent

On this section of trail are a couple of verdant spots supported by nearby springs.

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Tiger Lily
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Crimson Columbine

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The only wildlife on today's trek, identity unknown

Atop the ridge, the going is easy.  Although the Pacific Crest Trail is nearby, we don't actually encounter it.

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A lone figure on the distant summit

At the base of the mountain and at yet another major trail junction, Margaret elects to forgo the final pitch.  Besides being off her feed, a boot is chafing her foot; so she will rest here as I plunge up the hill alone.  The fairly steep climb — 800 feet in three quarters of a mile — takes me all of forty-five minutes including rest stops.

Since the trail continues northward past the mountain, I manage to pass right by the established semi-improved 'path' up the multi-colored jumble.  Primitive though the going is, I am able to achieve the top with no boulder-hopping.  The single hiker we had spotted from below has morphed into seven men, who are conveniently leaving just as I arrive.

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Just below the summit, looking north
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Those guys are departing just in time

The vistas from the summit are predictably outstanding, despite the plethora of smog cluttering the views.  I was hoping to spot Mount Lassen from here, but that will not happen today.  Behind Sierra Buttes I can just make out the even higher Mount Lola through the haze, nearly thirty miles away.

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It is nine miles to Sierra Buttes, 8590'

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Mud Lake

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Jamison Lake, Rock Lake, and Wades Lake up in the rocks

A visit to those lakes is on my to-do list.

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Rock lake is spectacularly situated

I spot another couple inching up the summit block, so I start down in order to let them have the place to themselves.  As we pass, the man asks whether I am the one who "left his sister" down below.

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Clambering up the rock jumble

Twenty minutes later I pick up my companion, and we head down toward Mud Lake on a trail that is seriously overgrown with underbrush.  At another junction, we turn left directly toward Long Lake, just to see what is over there.  Presently we spot a strange covered structure with several trap-doors in its roof.  I attempt to open one of them; but it balks, so we don't learn what is inside.  It must be some sort of research project.

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Heading for Long Lake
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Purpose unknown

Bypassing a trail branch that plunges directly into a willow thicket, Margaret and I continue to the lakeshore, only to learn that we must return to that spur route in order to cross the creek without getting wet.

Directly ahead are a boat pier and a nice cabin — the only one around.  Apologizing to the man on the porch for intruding, he laughs and says to follow the footprints to the right.  Although a trail through here is denoted on the topo sheet, apparently it has been out of service for a long time.

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Boat dock on Long Lake
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The only cabin in the forest

This residence sports its own semi-private swimming pond.

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A sunbathing platform in the middle

The trail soon peters out, then disappears as we tackle the previously avoided 500-foot hillside back to Helgramite Lake.  The cross-country going is friendly enough; but it is a climb, and there is no other way to get around the south side of Long Lake.

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A longing look back at Mount Elwell

One we get past Silver Lake, another trail option lets us veer left and head straight for the parking lot, saving half a mile over the multi-lake circuit.

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Last view of any lakes


§: When I first visited here, there were numerous cascades plunging down into Mud Lake.  This time there was hardly any running water at all, and it was hot out to boot.  The area lacked its usual sparkle today.  It always is nice to conquer a mountain, however, and I certainly did that.  I also viewed nine lakes and couple of significant ponds.

A trail from the Lakes Basin Campground around the north side of Long Lake would be the least strenuous option if one's only interest were in reaching Mount Elwell itself.  The hiking mileage would be about the same as our own return route.  A complete circuit of Long Lake would involve about half a mile of walking on the road between the campground and the Long Lake Trailhead.

This is an OGUL peak, which fact will be of interest only to the peak-bagger set.

Scenery *
Difficulty *
Personality *
Solitude *

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