Hoover Wilderness
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Conness Lakes Hoover Wilderness |
August 13, 2011
After our ascent of Mount Hoffman yesterday, Dave and I are hoping that the
smoke from the controlled Avalanche Fire will not inhibit our views today.
Having never ventured cross-country to the Conness Lakes, I am anxious to pay
them a visit. We opt for the $11 boat taxi across Saddlebag Lake, which
saves a whopping 1½ miles of walking each way.
It appears that smoke will not be a problem here, but all those contrails
are going to distort the sky while they last. Why are they there, anyway,
littering the Yosemite skies? Why aren't planes banned from
national-park airspace?
Greenstone Lake and Mount Conness, 12589'
At the landing dock is a giant swarm of mosquitos reminding us that the Sierra seasons are haywire this year. Everything is about a month behind a typical schedule. We frantically apply some bug repellent, then scurry up the path.
After half a mile of walking, it is time to depart the trail and head westward. As this route is new to us, some guesswork will be involved regarding the best approach to the objective. I hope that Dave appreciates this sort of challenge as much as I.
The cross-country adventure begins
It is a perfect day — calm, partly cloudy, 55 degrees.
Neither of us has even bothered to pack an outer layer of clothing.
More snow remains than would normally be the case at this time of year,
and some early-season flowers are still around.
Red Mountain Heather
White Mountain Heather
Although the going is fairly easy, it is necessary to circumvent numerous pools of
water and avoid crossing snowdrifts whenever possible. The only guideline available
is that we must keep to the right of the hundred-foot cascade just ahead.
Finding a way
Suddenly we stumble upon a use trail heading directly toward the falls. For some reason that remains unclear, however, we opt to head straight up the hill from here. This tactic serves to gain Dave some additional experience in snowdrift management.
The easy way
The hard way
Atop the little ridge, the lakes basin comes into view, and it is
drop-dead gorgeous. The Conness Glacier dominates the panorama.
This is why I go hiking ⇔
Scurrying down to the use trail that probably would have gotten us here with
less effort, we pause for some self-indulgent photographs. I have
spotted just three other hikers in the basin thus far.
Hamming it up for the camera
The trail continues up the north side of the lake, then suddenly ends at a high boulder surrounded by massive snowdrifts. It looks like the end of the line. Dave and I search for someplace to cross the creek and try our luck on the other side, but to no avail.
Paintbrush, almost
An iceberg, almost
Lower Conness Lake, elevation 10500'
I love the multi-tiered aspect of this series of smaller lakes,
with its several sections interconnected by foot-high dropoffs.
A good-feeling place despite the winter conditions
The prevailing snowpack has severely curtailed my plans.
There actually are six lakes in this basin; yet only one is readily
accessible today, and the glacier itself remains fully three-quarters
of a mile away. This means that another visit will be needed in
order to take care of unfinished business. Stay tuned.
Heading back up the eastern extension of North Peak
It is time for the next phase of our journey. Just on the other side of the ridge, another inspiring vista unfolds. We find a convenient route down the slabs between a pair of big snow banks.
Cascade Lake, Steelhead Lake, and Excelsior Mountain ⇔
The main trail is plainly visible on the far side of Steelhead Lake. I was over there five years ago, but at that time I inexplicably was unaware that this other good stuff existed. Only the big lake itself can be seen from the trail.
Walking down the grass clumps is fun
The hillside we just came down
Everything is so beautiful here that it doesn't matter where one chooses to explore. Lacking a plan, we wander in a northerly direction toward Cascade Lake.
Dave likes North Peak, 12247'
A commonplace mingling of Heather and Laurel
Cushion Buckwheat
I would like to scramble over closer to the lovely three-piece cascade, but getting there today would necessitate a water crossing.
Mill Creek begins right here, at the North Peak Snowfield
A pleasant little waterfall appears. This is a good place to stop and munch some gorp.
The Cascade Lake outlet
Potter Lake
Dave fills his water bottle
Patterns in the creek
Patterns in the rock
Black Mountain overlooks Lundy Canyon to the northeast
We decide not to attempt a crossing of Mill Creek, because it would be
necessary to find another way to cross back later. Instead, we head
east directly toward the trail. Because the standard access route is
obliterated by snow and ice, some scrambling is necessary; but we
cross-country veterans are accustomed to that by now.
Finding a way over to the main trail
The dog likes it better off the trail. So do I.
Fascinating geology on the face of North Peak
Now that we are back on a real trail, it is time to plot the next move. More than an hour remains before we are scheduled to return to the boat. That should be adequate time to explore yet another amazing feature of the Twenty Lakes Basin. After getting Dave's approval to embark upon a new adventure, we head eastward, straight up the hill. Who really wanted a trail, anyhow?
Random ponds
My GPS leads us up and down over scree, through meadows, and past several ponds, to the next destination.
Z Lake is close by, but one must make the effort to find it
A final look back at the Conness Glacier
The Z Lake shoreline unexpectedly proves to be a veritable Garden of Eden. We chat briefly with a solo woman hiker here, then continue eastward.
Paintbrush garden
Butterball Buckwheat
Jewel Flower
Mountain Pride
Before long, Saddlebag Lake comes into view. We still have half an hour; this is working out well.
Mount Dana is the park's second-highest at 13061'
I hope that Dave has noticed that somehow we have departed the land of glaciers and ice in favor of flowers, grasses, and green things in general. How did we do that?
An easy descent
The east-side trail is popular today
Hummingbird Lake has a unique color
More random ponds
Having found the trail again, Dave is dragging his feet. He is loath to return to the boat dock a minute too soon, lest the mosquito horde attempt to consume him again. But our timing is nearly perfect, as we reach the lakeshore just before the taxi arrives. A stiff breeze has dissipated the bloodsuckers in any case.
Our ride approaches
Our boatman thrills a young girl by letting her steer the boat across Saddlebag Lake. This sure beats walking that bland trail along the shoreline.
The taxi is full
East shore of Saddlebag Lake
§: The Hoover Wilderness has performed its magic once again.
My third venture into the Twenty Lakes Basin was the most rewarding yet.
The fact that this relatively small area never loses its appeal is a real
tribute to its special beauty. I know of no other place where one can
easily visit such radically different environments in close proximity.
Glacier-bound Lower Conness Lake and verdant Hummingbird Lake are but
1.2 miles apart, yet they seem to be in different worlds.
I am resolved to return each season until I have explored every feature of this place. Now that I know better what to expect of the Conness Lakes area, I will pay another visit when there is less snow to hinder my explorations.
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