Canyonlands National Park
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False Kiva Canyonlands National Park |
April 20, 2011
Today's trek rates to be something of an adventure and, I hope, an unusual treat as well. The destination is a Class II archeological site, which means that it is not publicized in any way by the Park Service, and no reference to it appears on maps.
Having presumably understood my directions to the trailhead, I spot what looks like an appropriate pathway heading into the desert. At least there are a lot of boot prints here. I follow the little wash as it slowly meanders toward noplace in particular.
Because this is not a heavily used route, it doesn't surprise me that the
trail is somewhat vague. My instructions were to veer left at a junction
to avoid becoming cliffed-out. Well, not only did I not encounter
a junction, but there seems to be a cliff dead ahead!
Vague trail
Approaching a big dropoff
The parkland vista is wonderful, but this is not the right trail. I believe that I am standing directly over the objective, which is out of sight some hundreds of feet below.
Candlestick Tower and Holeman Spring Basin ⇔
I was right — this already is an adventure. Although I hardly wore myself out over at Corona Arch earlier today, perhaps the drive up the arduous Shafer Trail dislodged my brain a bit. At one point on that road, it was touch and go as to whether I would have to remove my bicycle rack in order to get through.
In any case, I begin to retrace my steps, detouring periodically over to the edge of the cliff to try to see what is going on. To that end, at least, I am successful.
There's the trail — so near, yet so far
It looks like another dead-end this way
After half a mile of backtracking, I run into a lot of footprints heading in the proper direction. Soon I appear finally to be on the right path. Up to my right is the spot where I was standing half an hour ago.
I was right up there
Almost the same scene, but lower
Getting closer
Presently, I pass two returning hikers who inform me that I will have the place to myself, which also does not surprise me. Eventually, I reach an interim high point, where a stunning view stops me dead in my tracks. Oh, my!
It's no wonder that the Indians liked this place ⇔
From here the route is not a trail at all, but a mind-over-matter
exercise in caution and foot-placement. I know from online research
that I need to head down and over to the far side before ascending the rubble
to the alcove.
Little or no trail maintenance is performed here
Finally I reach the edge of the amphitheater, and the ruins appear.
False Kiva
There is a trail register in the big ammo box at the far end of the cave, and a little section is roped off for scientific study.
This quintessential view is a photographers' favorite ⇔
False Kiva is so named due to uncertainty regarding the stone circle's origin and purpose, as well as whether the structure is even authentic.
The traditional kiva was an actual room, or series of rooms, normally dug
into the ground, covered, and used for spiritual ceremonies by Pueblo
Indians. In other words, the males of the tribe got together, closed
the door, and imbibed their favorite hallucinogenic drugs while telling dirty
jokes — just as at any bachelor pad during a Super Bowl!
Had I known that there was a road, I would have used it
This ruin is not protected from vandalism in any manner. The remoteness of the site and difficulty of the trail have been deemed sufficient to keep out the riffraff. Thus far, this strategy seems to be working.
A fascinating place ⇔
My photographic efforts here are somewhat disappointing. I really should
have brought a camera with a wide-angle lens. I'll do that next time.
Nice lighting
I anticipate that the return will be rather easier than the trip in,
because I should be able to avoid the wild-goose chases.
I'll be a happy guy after reaching the top of this pile of chaos
As predicted, the remainder of the trail heads in a virtually straight
line all the way to the highway. At the trailhead, I discover that I
had needed only to search a bit harder for the unmistakable
boulevard-like path. On the other hand, I would have missed
some good cliff-side photo-ops.
It should be a cakewalk from here
Looking back from roadside
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In July, 2018, the kiva alcove was closed due to vandalism. Someone lit
a fire inside the kiva itself and used the charcoal to make handprints. Subsequently, a well-meaning but unauthorized cleanup effort made the damage even worse. |
Although the trail remains open and the ruins can be viewed from below, don't expect to get into the alcove itself for any of the wonderful outward views that you have seen on this and perhaps other pages.
In the future, rangers might offer guided tours to the area. That could be the only remaining option in this era of increasing classlessness and stupidity of certain park visitors.
| Scenery |  |
| Difficulty |  |
| Personality |  |
| Solitude |  |
