Zion National Park
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Angels Landing Zion National Park |
March 27, 2009
It is 32° at the trailhead at 10 a.m. I never have begun a hike at such a low temperature; but many others around me are planning to do the same. Having sat in the car overnight, my trail mix has frozen into a hard lump; but a few smashes by a fist mold it into the proper consistency.
Actually, it is not at all unpleasant outside. If the wind stays
away, the weather should be fine. Donning both a light and heavy
sweatshirt as well as a pair of gloves and a headband, I set out upon this
world-renowned adventure.
Starting out
The objective
The path is comprised of soft sand through the Virgin River flood
plain. As the route begins to angle upward, the trail surface morphs
into pink-colored pavement. Looking at the imposing cliff ahead,
it is not easy to see how it will be surmounted; but I soon find out.
A long series of switchbacks climbs nearly 700 feet to reach the virtually
hidden entrance to Refrigerator Canyon.
Up the cliff
Approaching the canyon entrance at right-center
Zion's trail surfaces are unmatched for quality
That wasn't so bad. The totally sunny route can be debilitating
in the summer heat here; but today it was a relative cake-walk.
And it's up to 35 degrees already! It is about now that I
realize my walking stick is still in the car. I have a feeling,
however, that that might not be a bad thing.
A slight breeze greets me as I enter Refrigerator Canyon, which is
somewhat shady and quite a bit cooler than other portions of this trail.
It is an easy half-mile jaunt beside the dry creek up to a special
attraction — Walter's Wiggles.
In Refrigerator Canyon
The famous Walter's Wiggles
This series of 21 switchbacks — cut into solid rock in
1926 — was named after Walter Ruesch, the park's first
custodian and supervisor of the building of the West Rim Trail.
The structure is entirely paved and sports a fancy drainage system as well.
At the top of the Wiggles is a flat sandy area known as Scout Lookout, which is plenty busy already. There is a waiting line at the two potties, one of which remains inexplicably "Closed for the Winter".
Scout Lookout
Upon seeing the warning sign at the head of the remaining trail segment,
many folks opt to go no farther. Half a mile of hands-on
scrambling and scary cliff-side paths lies just ahead. This is
no place for the acrophobic, the clumsy, or the faint of heart.
There have been 6 deaths here in 100 years
That being said, I eagerly anticipate the 400-foot uphill challenge to the summit. Numerous other hikers are passing by in both directions, including youngsters that couldn't be more than six or seven years old. Doubtless this place is heaven for them.
The real fun begins right here
There aren't many trails like this
A good place to hang on
I overhear a young mother admonishing her child to maintain "three
points of contact" — that is, two feet and one hand, or
one foot and two hands. Sage advice. To that end, I now am
pleased not to be encumbered by a walking stick, which would just have been
in the way in those hands-on sections. Perhaps I'll feel
differently on the way down!
Occasionally, hikers are on their own in tight places
Although there are several spots where it would be rather silly not to
hold on, in general the chain is not essential to
life-support. Frequently, however, it does provide the only
convenient handhold, making the clambering easier. I am most thankful
for my 99¢ gloves, because that steel chain is cold!
Northwest Indian Paintbrush
The mountain top comes into view at the far end of a thin slice of rock. Is that really the route? The prospect is exciting.
After a downhill scramble to the base of the spine, I encounter the
most unique and special trail segment in my hiking
experience — a two-foot-wide rock stairway,
where it is 800 feet straight down on the right, and 1,200 feet
straight down on the left! Just one key factor is in force here:
if you slip and fall, and you are not holding on, then you could die.
So the course is clear: you grab the chain. The guy in the photo is
not doing so, but his brain is located someplace other than in his head at
the moment.
The challenge is well-defined
This is why I go hiking
Around every corner is a new mini-adventure.
Getting to the root of the matter
Look, Ma — no hands!
The top doesn't seem far away now, but the woman directly ahead of me is calling it quits right here.
She has seen enough
Made it! The mountain top is about a hundred yards long.
There are 20 to 30 people with me up here. Angels Landing was
so named after explorer Frederic Fisher exclaimed in 1916 that, "Only
an angel could land on top of it!" If only that person could
see it today!
Room at the top
Zion Canyon and the park lodge to the south
Zion Canyon to the north
The scavengers are busy as usual
Perched atop the true summit
Another view northward toward The Narrows
After a lunch of gorp and dried fruit, it is time to leave.
A 350-mile drive awaits me yet today, which will take me halfway home.
Starting down the freeway
Chains are advised in all weather conditions
Across the canyon is a view of the trail to Observation Point, a
2,000-foot climb. Those switchbacks were blasted from solid rock.
The Observation Point Trail to the east
A typical no-passing zone
Back at Scout Lookout, the woman who had declined the final ascent awaits her companion, who apparently did continue to the top.
Still waiting
I head up the West Rim Trail for a ways, hoping to find a viewpoint with a good overall view of Walter's Wiggles. I know that such a place exists, for I have seen an exquisite photograph taken up there. It appears, however, that it would be necessary to travel at least another mile and climb another 500 feet to achieve the proper angle; so I abandon the attempt. Maybe next time.
Scout Lookout from the West Rim Trail
From here there is a good view of the bottom segment of the route to Observation Point, which also serves as the beginning of the Hidden Canyon Trail up as far as the snow banks in the photo.
The Hidden Canyon / Observation Point Trail
Down I go, toward the trailhead.
Wiggling the chute. Or is it shooting the Wiggles?
Northern Refrigerator Canyon
Easy going down through the slot canyon
Exotic formations in the sandstone
The switchbacks are virtually invisible from below
After exiting Refrigerator Canyon amid a blast of cold breeze, I remove my jacket
for the first time today. It is 47 degrees at the end of the walk.
Purple Locoweed
These guys seem unconcerned
The Great White Throne
§: Today I had hoped finally to award a top rating for a
hike; this trail certainly is deserving. Several conditions,
however, could have been better. Springtime has not yet arrived in
Zion Canyon; there are no leaves on the trees to speak of, few flowers have
appeared, and there is little running water except in the Virgin River
itself. These conditions negatively affected my photographic efforts
as well as the overall feel of the place. Also, several times during
the descent I was compelled to step aside and wait as groups of as many as
five to ten climbers passed by. On the way up I could have benefited
from those rest stops, but on the downhill segment the traffic was a hassle.
On the other hand, crowds have become a largely unavoidable fact of life;
so perhaps I will downplay that factor in future ratings. Additionally,
the scenery is exceptional, and the final half-mile ranks among the
several most challenging non-technical hikes in North America.
For my money, only the cliff-hanging Precipice Trail in Acadia
National Park and the cable-assisted ascent of Yosemite's Half Dome
can compare. No serious hiker's tally of accomplishments could be
complete without including this unique and special place.
Additionally, I avoided the horrible mid-season temperatures, which can
kill the enjoyment of any hike here. By mid-May it already can
be unpleasantly hot, a fact to which I can personally attest. Also, the
crowding is worst around here in the blazing heat of the summer. Go figure.
Mid-April could well be the best time to visit Zion. But whenever you should come, conquering Angels Landing will be the highlight of your trip. I'll be back next year, looking to score at least one '10' in this incomparable park.
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